Doesn't anybody adjust valves in 90-degree increments of the damper anymore? At TDC, adjust 2 valves; move the damper 90 degrees, adjust 2 more valves, and so on? This procedure is described in car manuals. I use it without issue.
Rocker Arms Keep Getting Loose ????"s
- Thread starter dickeymoore
- Start date
The 'exhaust opens/intake closes' method is foolproof, you don't need a service manual you may not have, and doesn't matter what kind of engine it is or what the firing order is or if it's got a 4/7 swap cam in it or if the lobe separation or altered intake centerline has changed things enough to make the factory OEM service procedure obsolete...
dickeymoore said:
No this is not. Like I said, the intake has to go down and be CLOSING. Otherwise the exhausts will all have slack in them. Adjusting the intake when the exhaust is opening is correct.
A lot of people don't like to do it this way, but backing off the rocker nut with the motor running until the lifter is clicking then retightening to zero lash, then move on the next one until complete on that back is a time honored procedure. Shut off the motor, then give them a 1/2 more turn, or as someone has mentioned, which seems like a good idea, namely paint a white dot at the 12:00 position, tighten to the 5 o:clock position, set the hex screw against the top of the rock stud, then snug down to the 6:00 position.
BTW, my mtr which is essentially a ZZ4 has a lot of valve train noise, no matter how much the preload is set on the lifters. I live with it. One of the cruise-in guys with the same crate mtr complained the same thing. and later pulled the lifters replacing with whatever hyd roller lifter that Comp Cams sells, and it solved the noise problem. So maybe there's a issue with GM roller lifters in these crate mtrs, who knows?
BTW, my mtr which is essentially a ZZ4 has a lot of valve train noise, no matter how much the preload is set on the lifters. I live with it. One of the cruise-in guys with the same crate mtr complained the same thing. and later pulled the lifters replacing with whatever hyd roller lifter that Comp Cams sells, and it solved the noise problem. So maybe there's a issue with GM roller lifters in these crate mtrs, who knows?
That is exactly what I did with my last cam swap. It was a lot less messy due to the engine not running for as long, and there was no risk of the engine stalling while tightening the rockers that extra 1/2 turn.gmtofd said:
I pulled the Hyd lifters and cam,the cam had a lobe that is wore down and two that was wearing,I installed a NEW Comp Cams Hyd Roller Retro fit cam and lifters got the engine to run still had some clatter so I tighten the valves some more and no clatter,but now I'm getting some popping and hestitation when I floor the car,so could some of the valves be to tight,if so can I just loosen the polylock and back off the valves like a 1/8 turn or do I have to go through all the valves?THANKS
No offence but i think you should take it to someone who knows how to adjust the valves. Might save you more wrecked parts.
brian
brian
NONE TAKEN ,I been working on SBC engines for 20+ years(guess I'm getting OLD)it was not the valves to tight but the timing was to LOW bumped the timing up and it breaks the tires loose at a roll when passing gear kicks in,but still have a LITTLE chatter but will live with it,hope it stays this way will update if not.THANKS
