First off, here's a like to a video of my car on launch from two weeks ago, the last race of the season here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtJRdq_pzSk
It'll do consistent 1.83 60' times with a best of a 1.75 on a really good track and ran consistent 12.96's up here at 4200 feet in Utah the day the video was taken.
The car has a 9.8:1 383, AFR 195's, Lunati Voodoo cam (.489/.504 lift at I think 228 and 234 duration without lookin it up), Performer RPM manifold mechanical secondary 750 demon carb. Its a reverse manual valvebody TH350 with a 3800 stall B&M holeshot that flashes at 4400 on lauch. The suspension has lots of room to improve, its got heavy duty front springs and KYB gas adjust shocks, no front sway bar and global west del-a-lum bushings in the A-arms. The battery is in the stock location and i know I can benefit from drag shocks and softer springs as well as moving the battery to the back.
The rear suspension has DickMiller Racing anti hop bars which are similar to the Edelberocks but far less severe. The theoretical instant center is 52" inches in front of the rear axle and I can change its mounting location to put it 67" in front of the rear axle. Its got the original springs and air shocks that I run completely deflated to make them effectively a 50/50 shock. Again, i know i can benefit from more race oriented parts. The tires are 29x11.5 hoosier slicks run at 14 psi with a max notch. I Notched the frame and pu the big tires under it because i was having a hard time hooking with Mickey Thompson 275/50/15 drag radials after I refreshed the trans and converter, besides too much tire isn't a bad thing at my local track where prep is marginal 90% of the time. Its consistent and thats what counts in bracket racing. I've tried the SSM bars before I switched the the anti hop style bars. The SSM really didn't work for the car as it squated on launch and now I'm getting nice separation or lift on lauch pushing the rear tires into the ground.
What do you guys think? I know relocating the battery and race oriented front end parts will help immensly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtJRdq_pzSk
It'll do consistent 1.83 60' times with a best of a 1.75 on a really good track and ran consistent 12.96's up here at 4200 feet in Utah the day the video was taken.
The car has a 9.8:1 383, AFR 195's, Lunati Voodoo cam (.489/.504 lift at I think 228 and 234 duration without lookin it up), Performer RPM manifold mechanical secondary 750 demon carb. Its a reverse manual valvebody TH350 with a 3800 stall B&M holeshot that flashes at 4400 on lauch. The suspension has lots of room to improve, its got heavy duty front springs and KYB gas adjust shocks, no front sway bar and global west del-a-lum bushings in the A-arms. The battery is in the stock location and i know I can benefit from drag shocks and softer springs as well as moving the battery to the back.
The rear suspension has DickMiller Racing anti hop bars which are similar to the Edelberocks but far less severe. The theoretical instant center is 52" inches in front of the rear axle and I can change its mounting location to put it 67" in front of the rear axle. Its got the original springs and air shocks that I run completely deflated to make them effectively a 50/50 shock. Again, i know i can benefit from more race oriented parts. The tires are 29x11.5 hoosier slicks run at 14 psi with a max notch. I Notched the frame and pu the big tires under it because i was having a hard time hooking with Mickey Thompson 275/50/15 drag radials after I refreshed the trans and converter, besides too much tire isn't a bad thing at my local track where prep is marginal 90% of the time. Its consistent and thats what counts in bracket racing. I've tried the SSM bars before I switched the the anti hop style bars. The SSM really didn't work for the car as it squated on launch and now I'm getting nice separation or lift on lauch pushing the rear tires into the ground.
What do you guys think? I know relocating the battery and race oriented front end parts will help immensly.