rear suspension where to start

dubasracing

Member
Mar 19, 2008
7
0
0
i signed up to be a member on that site too i'm looking for any help with my situation. 84 monte carlo 383 sbc, ford 9 inch rear, 5000 stall converter ,456 rear gear, qa1 rear coil overs, rear anti roll bar, hotchkins control arm braces, iceman upper control arms and lower double adjustables front is qa1 coil overs (bolt in style), sphon upper a -arms, stock lower a arms, 2 inch drop spindles, rack and pinion steering, ran a best without anti roll bar 11.36 @ 119.9mph 1.50 60 foot with tremendous body roll,and smoked tires past tree, and it broke the right front lower bump stop and rear whels trying to turn. so installed anti roll bar car doesnt roll anymore but lost anykind of traction and 60 foot times fell way off to 1.6's feels like there is no weight transfering. set up i had before when i ran a 355 sbc running 11.95 @ 109mph with 1.52 sixty foot times suspension was working flawlessly with ssm lift bars stock v6 front coil springs, an 90/10 ce shocks rear was the same with coil overs and no anti bar. i changed everything thinking it wold be benificial? should i buy all the stuff i took off and sold (lol) and try it since it worked even though im making much more power? any help or direction would be great thanks.
Brad.
 

80montecarlo

Dragway Regular
Apr 24, 2008
1,123
0
0
cloverdale b.c. canada
dubasracing said:
i signed up to be a member on that site too i'm looking for any help with my situation. 84 monte carlo 383 sbc, ford 9 inch rear, 5000 stall converter ,456 rear gear, qa1 rear coil overs, rear anti roll bar, hotchkins control arm braces, iceman upper control arms and lower double adjustables front is qa1 coil overs (bolt in style), sphon upper a -arms, stock lower a arms, 2 inch drop spindles, rack and pinion steering, ran a best without anti roll bar 11.36 @ 119.9mph 1.50 60 foot with tremendous body roll,and smoked tires past tree, and it broke the right front lower bump stop and rear whels trying to turn. so installed anti roll bar car doesnt roll anymore but lost anykind of traction and 60 foot times fell way off to 1.6's feels like there is no weight transfering. set up i had before when i ran a 355 sbc running 11.95 @ 109mph with 1.52 sixty foot times suspension was working flawlessly with ssm lift bars stock v6 front coil springs, an 90/10 ce shocks rear was the same with coil overs and no anti bar. i changed everything thinking it wold be benificial? should i buy all the stuff i took off and sold (lol) and try it since it worked even though im making much more power? any help or direction would be great thanks.
Brad.

sounds like you need a TT day as you have some shock and ARB tuning to do
 

dubasracing

Member
Mar 19, 2008
7
0
0
I've tried every position on the shocks and spring adjustments and no matter which setting it is hard to bounce the front end up and down its super stiff for some reason? and if i lift the front fender the car stays that way it doesnt go back down unless you push down on the fender. I've removed the shocks and they are working fine. now the rear lower control arms are also in stock location (mounting holes) I'm thinking of getting lift bars again so they are relocated and more parallel for better traction like i had before. I've heard from a few locals at the track that they threw away their QA1 front shocks and coils cause they had similar results(no lift or weight transferring). The anti bar seems close cause the car is pulling a bit left on launch and a little fishtailing down track but much better than the violent twisting and hard right turn type launches from before.
 

5-door

MalibuRacing Junkie
Mar 23, 2004
3,845
0
0
Cottage Grove, MN
www.jtraceshop.com
dubasracing said:
I've tried every position on the shocks and spring adjustments and no matter which setting it is hard to bounce the front end up and down its super stiff for some reason? and if i lift the front fender the car stays that way it doesnt go back down unless you push down on the fender. I've removed the shocks and they are working fine. now the rear lower control arms are also in stock location (mounting holes) I'm thinking of getting lift bars again so they are relocated and more parallel for better traction like i had before. I've heard from a few locals at the track that they threw away their QA1 front shocks and coils cause they had similar results(no lift or weight transferring). The anti bar seems close cause the car is pulling a bit left on launch and a little fishtailing down track but much better than the violent twisting and hard right turn type launches from before.
Where are you located?
 

darius smith

Amateur Racer
Jul 12, 2006
206
0
0
fort valley, ga
we have about the same problem with 60ft and our suspension set is similar. i have single qa1s on all4 corners and qa1 coil over springs in rear(12" #130). i have a arb with double adj. upper and had non adj lowers. the front has tricksprings #212 which they did help with weight transfer. i'm like you i up graded and still didnt see a difference from the cheap shocks(lakewood) i even have went as far as changing rear gear from a 4.56 to a 3.89 to help 60ft. and guess what it still the same and so is the everything else. i got double adj. lowers going on the car soon but i they arent going to help either, so good luck with yours.
 

dubasracing

Member
Mar 19, 2008
7
0
0
im heading to summit tomorrow night gonna grab a set of summit front shocks 212 trick springs and lift bars. ill let ya know what happens next time i take the car out. the double adj lowers on the rear really serve no purpose in my opinion other than being able to move the rear tires fwd or backward to be centered in the wheel well. unless anyone has other insight before i go drop 400 bucks tomorrow night.
 

darius smith

Amateur Racer
Jul 12, 2006
206
0
0
fort valley, ga
they also help the rear move freely but i was told to stay away from the lift bars with a big hp car (550 or better). i got a deal on mine double lowers so they are worth it. but a good set from any of these suppliers arent that bad. a good set of shocks will create the seperation of the rearend driving tires in track. the 212 springs is going to make the biggest difference. i have seperation on my car and its sits on top of tire because if the rear squated any i would scrub the tires. in my opinion save the money for the lift bars and invest in good shocks. i've been down that road on buying stuff i would make work and end up selling it and buying better stuff the second time.
 

dubasracing

Member
Mar 19, 2008
7
0
0
what about umi relocation brackets for the lower control arms? doesnt relocating the lowers cause the same effect as the lift bars? the lakewood shocks are nowhere to be found so im trying to decide to go with comp engineering or summit brand for the front. my rear set up is basically identical to yours. qa1 springs and shocks in rear are same lb rate and single adjustable. i ran the lift bars previously on old motor and never ever had a traction problem. im thinking since the lift bars come with relocation brackets its a win win since i have the double adj lowers already i can always swap them back. the brackets alone are 70 bucks and the complete lift bar kit is 177 bucks so its a 107 dollar trial and error. ive spent worse amounts of money trying other stuf over the years. i just want to get back in the 1.50 sixty foot times and get this car in the 10s where it belongs. i been so wrapped up in suspension i havnt begun to start tuning engine its fresh off the engine stand basically.
 

5-door

MalibuRacing Junkie
Mar 23, 2004
3,845
0
0
Cottage Grove, MN
www.jtraceshop.com
dubasracing said:
youngstown ohio
Wish you lived closer to Minnesota. A few hours on the scales at TNT and we could have 'er all dialed in for ya.
 

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