Ok, this site has a lot of very good info on it, but so much that I'm lost now. I am building an 81 malibu drag car, and I thought I had the rear figured out, but guess not. I know the 7.5's in them can't handle power for very long. What would be my best bet for a car that will run mid 10's? 8.5, 9, or 12 bolt. Just starting the project, so 3 can fit whatever wheels I need, etc. I just don't want to cut the frame right now, that's all I'm holding to. If you make a suggestion, maybe a short reason for your choice would help. Thanks.
which housing? confused and a lil lost
- Thread starter novadragr
- Start date
i went with a 12 bolt from a 66 chevelle b/c its stronger and they have 12 bolt swap parts to put these in with very minor mods the same you'd have to do with an 8.5 or 9 inch. Plus the 12 bolt is a bit lighter than the 9 about the same as the 8.5 too. And might aswell get the rear that will handle more in the long run.
I'd have to say 9" is the way to go. It is hands down the toughest rearend you can build for a race car. Parts are abundant, cheap, and very easy to work with. One of the big reasons 9" is superior is because it always has 2 teeth meshing in contact at all times between the ring & pinion gears. Most other rearends only have 1 tooth engaged at any give time in the rotation.
I guess I try to look at most things this way. What do you see the most when you go to the track? Most of the cars that perform well and reliably have a 9" in them. Same goes for other types of parts. What brand of carb do you see the most? Holley, because they work well and are superior to all others. Etc etc etc.
I guess I try to look at most things this way. What do you see the most when you go to the track? Most of the cars that perform well and reliably have a 9" in them. Same goes for other types of parts. What brand of carb do you see the most? Holley, because they work well and are superior to all others. Etc etc etc.
5-door said:
Not to mention the big reason they're stronger- there's a bearing on both sides of the pinion gear, not just on the input shaft.
Tommy
5-door said:
One downfall though is that it takes more power to turn a 9 inch becuase of the location at which the pinion and ring gear contact. If i remeber correctly it sits slightly higher than center. But as for reliabilty i would say a 9 inch, But for me i went 12 bolt, i like to keep a gm all GM.
Yeah, but the extra horsepower loss is very minuscule. Maybe to 2-4 extra horsepower. That's an extremely small price to pay for the extra reliability and ease of use.iwannawheelie said:
If you buy a completely aftermarket 9" housing, 3rd member, axles, etc., is it really still considered a Ford part?
5-door said:Yeah, but the extra horsepower loss is very minuscule. Maybe to 2-4 extra horsepower. That's an extremely small price to pay for the extra reliability and ease of use.iwannawheelie said:
If you buy a completely aftermarket 9" housing, 3rd member, axles, etc., is it really still considered a Ford part?
If you put in a dart small block dont you call it a SBC cool.gif
a racer where i live run a 64 chevyII bbc procharged running 7's using a 12 bolt with no problems.
I'm appreciating the info. I am leaning toward the 9 due to the changability factor, such as the carrier. Nothing like changing gears on the fly. I could borrow a friends carrier with a different gear to try out. On a side note on those housings, what axles fit in them? I could just buy the housing and slide some broken stock axles in to roll it around while building the chassis.
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