I recently cured my unbelievably bad wheel hop. After buying just about everything to combat this problem it is now fixed. A list of the things I have purchased to stop the wheel hop. UMI double adjustable uppers with urethane bushings, UMI boxed lowers also urethane bushings, UMI lower control are re-location brackets, QA1 12 way adjustable rear shocks (When turned up act as a great band-aid), 3 way adjustable front comp engineering shocks. I tried setting pinion angle at various locations, with no results. What fixed the car was a set of stock rear springs. One thing that never dawned on me was were the coils that came in my car when I bought it stock? Guess what they weren't. They appear to be wagon or cargo springs. After installing the new springs I found my car now sat about 2 inches lower. I also found out that with stock springs i now had to roll the rear wheel well lips to clear my 275-60-15 tires. Wheel hop had always been a problem with my car, and only got worse after I put in the LS2 and 6 speed. I had purchased anti hop bars with plans of putting them on, but decided to try one more thing first. So FYI anyone who has wheel hop check to make sure your car is riding near stock height. The problem I believe relates to rear control arm bind, caused by a raised ride height. If the car can't transfer weight to the rear suspension due to bind, you will either have no traction, or wheel hop.
Wheel Hop
- Thread starter tripdagoat
- Start date
tripdagoat said:
You hit the nail on the head. I mean absolutely no disrespect to any of the sponsors or any manufacturer of suspension parts, but that's why I've been so adamant about not running all solid or all poly bushings on a converging four link rear suspension. There's got to be some type of rotational movement allowed at one end of the arms for the axle to be really compliant.
I'm gald you got things smoothed out!
Tommy
Lowering the car down helped you out too. One thing I like to do in a car with rubber or poly bushings is to tighten the control arm bolts until they are just snug, then use another nut to lock the first nut from loosening.
The part that still confuses me a little is that some people out there are running g body cars with 275-60-15 and claiming they fit no problem. I can say that 8 inch wide Weld Pro-Star rims with 3 1/2" backspacing without a doubt do not fit without rolling the wheel well lips. One thing I was also looking into was using the v6 spring in the front. I heard that they work better than a trick spring, and now that the front of my car weighs considerably less (all aluminum engine) and my rear springs are now correct height the front sits a little high. Anyone out there try this setup?
Glad to hear you got it sorted out!
The height of the vehicle effects the vehicles pinion angle, instant center and the springs will effect the weight and squat. By using the correct springs and lowering the car two inches to factory corrected the instant center, changed drive line angle and the springs most likely allow some squat now. Now that you put the new springs in I would recommend checking your pinion angle again and setting it.
The height of the vehicle effects the vehicles pinion angle, instant center and the springs will effect the weight and squat. By using the correct springs and lowering the car two inches to factory corrected the instant center, changed drive line angle and the springs most likely allow some squat now. Now that you put the new springs in I would recommend checking your pinion angle again and setting it.
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