manual brake pushrod

[posracing79bu]

Where can i get another brake pushrod? All I really need is the pushrod, maybe another rubber boot and the clevis and pin.

Any ideas, I havn't seen anything on the net as of yet.

Thanks,
John

 

[Anonymous]

Where can i get another brake pushrod? All I really need is the pushrod, maybe another rubber boot and the clevis and pin.

Any ideas, I havn't seen anything on the net as of yet.

Thanks,
John

what is it for?? wilwood? or a kit off here.?

 

[posracing79bu]

Re.

It's for a stock replacement manual brake master cylinder. I removed the booster and need the m/c pushrod, can't find the old one.
Any ideas where to look? I want to get the brakes working before I take it to the chassis shop.

Thanks,
John

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Re.

It's for a stock replacement manual brake master cylinder. I removed the booster and need the m/c pushrod, can't find the old one.
Any ideas where to look? I want to get the brakes working before I take it to the chassis shop.

Thanks,
John

go get a 6" long bolt and cut the head off and cut it down to length you need... thats what i did with my wilwood set up..bought everything at local hardware store..

 

[Sandy]

I used the rod from my power booster. After a destructive disassembly!

Very carefully cut it until it fits using stop as described below.

Also moved the pin in the brake pedal to the upper hole. Grind head flush and press out and weld into position in the upper hole. Then it lines up properly with the master cylinder using the upper two holes in the firewall.

I put an adjustable stop for the brake pedal. There are two holes in the brake pedal bracket, the lower one for the brake light switch and another hole just above. Using a short bolt and a couple of nuts you can make a neat little stop. Choose your rod length carefully taking into account that you need to be able to screw the brake light switch in so a few threads catch.

I am just in the process of bleeding the brakes and will report on the operation of the brakes in a week or so.

Was trying to get the car running for Saturday, but just discovered that I need longer wheel studs on the front for the centerline mags. May just run the steel wheels for now.

If the above is not clear regarding the brake let me know and I will respond in more detail.

EDIT: JUST A NOTE OF CAUTION---------MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE DOING WITH THIS PROCEDURE. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THERE IS A STOP SO THE BRAKE PEDAL CANNOT COME BACK TOO FAR AND ALLOW THE ROD TO DROP DOWN AWAY FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER. IF THIS HAPPENS YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY BRAKES EXCEPT THE PARKING BRAKE WHICH WORKS FROM A SEPARATE CABLE.

WHEN THE ROD LENGTH AND STOP ARE CORRECT THERE IS ALMOST NO PLAY BEFORE THE ROD ENGAGES THE M/C.

 

[scorpion]

Look at the Tech section. There are two different setups on manual brakes for the Bu. Ron

 

[Sandy]

Checked out the tech, excellent article.

 

[Supe]

You could just pick up some allthread and a rod end to make one, and it'd be adjustable. Just get a female rod end with an ID the same size as the pin on the brake.

 

[DeltaT]

If you do the allthread thing, make sure you get the good stainless stuff. Some of the no-name stuff in your local hardware store is soft junk, and I'd hate to hear that it bent or stripped the threads off in a panic stop situation.

Jim

 

[Hiway]

It's very easy to pull the pedal assembly out and mount in a vise. Add a washer to simulate the firewall between the assembly and master. Have at it making your rod just right without crawling around. Very easy to see what will work and what won't. Also a good time to "bench bleed" your master.