f-body oil pan

steve40

Daily Driver
Sep 2, 2010
30
0
0
windsor, ontario
i'm working on a ls swap into a 84 ss. i have a ls motor from a f-body. i was looking at using the brp mounts, since the accessories work, and i wanted to keep the ac box. i see they say to use the lh8 oil pan. i'm not really comfortable with it hanging below the frame. did some searching and saw people use the cts-v pan. its pretty similar to the f-body one, has anyone used the f-body one? got an pics of where to cut/notch the frame?

thanks,
steve
 

steve40

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Sep 2, 2010
30
0
0
windsor, ontario
so got a lil time today and the weather has been decent enough to work with the door up in the garage....couple of minutes with a cut off wheel and ended up with this......

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IMG_20111226_143117.jpg


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IMG_20111226_143018.jpg


IMG_20111226_143507.jpg


just have to tweak the transcrossmember...it was hitting the floor.....after that....pull it all out again and clean it up and box the frame back in.

more pics of the project in the link if anyone is interested.
 

79loserbluebu

Frequent Racer
Jun 15, 2009
302
0
0
Illinois-60491
Wish I'd seen this sooner. The CTS-V pan won't work with the BRP mounts and stock crossmember, but the way you notched it, it would clear pretty nicely. Great job. I went with the Musclecar pan because I didn't want to modify the frame at all.
 

steve40

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Sep 2, 2010
30
0
0
windsor, ontario
79loserbluebu said:
Wish I'd seen this sooner. The CTS-V pan won't work with the BRP mounts and stock crossmember, but the way you notched it, it would clear pretty nicely. Great job. I went with the Musclecar pan because I didn't want to modify the frame at all.

i heard the cts-v one was close and the f-body is very similar....i had the pan and well cutting the frame wasn't a big deal for me...already did it for the rear wheel notch....so this is just a lil more work and welding for my friend!!!!

plus i also like how it sits above the bottom of the cross member.
 

LT1_Malibu

Amateur Racer
Jan 19, 2006
202
0
0
Greenup, Kentucky
I ended up using a F-body pan with the 1'' setback plates and it clears...It's really close (about 1/8th inch) but it does clear. It seems to have plenty of side clearance for the engine to "twist" when its revved but not pan to frame which "shouldn't" be an issue.
 

79loserbluebu

Frequent Racer
Jun 15, 2009
302
0
0
Illinois-60491
steve40 said:
79loserbluebu said:
Wish I'd seen this sooner. The CTS-V pan won't work with the BRP mounts and stock crossmember, but the way you notched it, it would clear pretty nicely. Great job. I went with the Musclecar pan because I didn't want to modify the frame at all.

i heard the cts-v one was close and the f-body is very similar....i had the pan and well cutting the frame wasn't a big deal for me...already did it for the rear wheel notch....so this is just a lil more work and welding for my friend!!!!

plus i also like how it sits above the bottom of the cross member.

Yeah it looks really nice you did an awesome job. Looking back I should have notched the frame and used the f-body or cts-v instead of the musclecar. It sort of limits what you can do suspension wise up front with the lower hanging pans.
 

steve40

Daily Driver
Thread starter
Sep 2, 2010
30
0
0
windsor, ontario
79loserbluebu said:
Yeah it looks really nice you did an awesome job. Looking back I should have notched the frame and used the f-body or cts-v instead of the musclecar. It sort of limits what you can do suspension wise up front with the lower hanging pans.

yea. i spent a while looking at swaps on the net and my buddy is doing a ls in a gn...he went with the muscle car pan...i wasn't thrilled with it hanging down....even if it has tons of clearance...i'd rather not use the oil pan to know i hit the ground! plus i already had the f-body one..so it was 45min of lifting and cutting to get that....when it warms up here and i can get back out to the garage...i'll get the motor out to clean it up and box back in....plus get some better pics then too!
 

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