OK guys, let's see if I can keep my mind off of Finster long enough to rewrite the deleted "Brakes FAQ's" post for a new "Sticky".
Q: Can I run stock upper A-arms with the B-body/1LE conversion?
A: No. The camber would be way out (+) and the necessary shim pack would be ridiculously thick.
Q: Can I use the stock disc/drum combo valve on a disc/disc setup?
A: No. The proprotioning is much different, the rear brakes will get too much pressure reduction under hard braking. The metering is different, too. There will be too much delay of the front brakes, resulting in excessive rear lock up.
Q: Can I use a disc/drum master cylinder on a disc/disc setup?
A: No. The master cylinder will not move enough fluid volume to give you proper rear caliper pressure, resulting in a mushy pedal or very little rear brakes or both.
Q: Can I use an adjustable brake bias valve instead of a combination valve?
A: You shouldn't on a stock style system. It can be done, but you end up not having the rear brakes start to apply first. This helps keep the car stable. There is also a safety built into the valve that blocks off a circuit if it develops a leak so you don't run the risk of "bypassing" the M/C and losing all the fluid. Adjustable type bias valves are just that- bias valves. They are designed to be used for fine tuning front/rear bias on a stock style system with a combo valve or to be used with a dual master cylinder set up like most race cars have.
Q: Can I use a power brake master cylinder on a manual brake conversion?
A: No. It would work, but you end up with extremely high pedal effort. If you try to use a manual master cylinder with a booster, the opposite is true. You get an extremely light pedal that's very touchy.
Q: Can I eliminate the combo valve when I convert to disc/disc?
A: Technically, yes. It should work if the M/C has the same size bore for the front and rear brake circuits. For stock set ups, I would have to say no for the reasons listed above.
I'll add more if I think of them.
Tommy
edited 07 May 06
Q: Can I run stock upper A-arms with the B-body/1LE conversion?
A: No. The camber would be way out (+) and the necessary shim pack would be ridiculously thick.
Q: Can I use the stock disc/drum combo valve on a disc/disc setup?
A: No. The proprotioning is much different, the rear brakes will get too much pressure reduction under hard braking. The metering is different, too. There will be too much delay of the front brakes, resulting in excessive rear lock up.
Q: Can I use a disc/drum master cylinder on a disc/disc setup?
A: No. The master cylinder will not move enough fluid volume to give you proper rear caliper pressure, resulting in a mushy pedal or very little rear brakes or both.
Q: Can I use an adjustable brake bias valve instead of a combination valve?
A: You shouldn't on a stock style system. It can be done, but you end up not having the rear brakes start to apply first. This helps keep the car stable. There is also a safety built into the valve that blocks off a circuit if it develops a leak so you don't run the risk of "bypassing" the M/C and losing all the fluid. Adjustable type bias valves are just that- bias valves. They are designed to be used for fine tuning front/rear bias on a stock style system with a combo valve or to be used with a dual master cylinder set up like most race cars have.
Q: Can I use a power brake master cylinder on a manual brake conversion?
A: No. It would work, but you end up with extremely high pedal effort. If you try to use a manual master cylinder with a booster, the opposite is true. You get an extremely light pedal that's very touchy.
Q: Can I eliminate the combo valve when I convert to disc/disc?
A: Technically, yes. It should work if the M/C has the same size bore for the front and rear brake circuits. For stock set ups, I would have to say no for the reasons listed above.
I'll add more if I think of them.
Tommy
edited 07 May 06