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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 4:56 pm 
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Malibu355 wrote:
yep, mine "smokes" out of the breathers as well when warmed up. it will get figured out. some parts are on their way now from the builder. might have this fixed by the middle of next week i hope.



A good sealed motor won't vent as you and Lee described.. It is true "IF" the carb is running alittle rich on idle OR after a pass.. I also recommend highly to anyone running alcohol that after every nites running getting the engine temp up to around 200-210 and then shut down and let the motor heat soak,, and then pull the breather caps off.. this will insure that if any moisture is in the motor the heat will get rid of it.. 8)

My suggestion malibu355 is when you gwet this carb figured out, i would get the motor up and running and heat it up to 210-220 for about 4 minutes with the lean out closed. This will help the motor or rings cut into the glazing on the cylinder walls and help seal up alittle better.. ;)

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:26 pm 
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haha, i wouldnt be suprised if this thing is wore out. this will be my third season racing it and who knows how long it was run or anything before i bought the car. I will heat it up though as a buddy i race with took your advice on that to help seal his motor and it worked like a charm. this winter the motor is coming out to get freshened up and maybe some new slugs. knock on wood i have ran about 25 gallons through this thing and so far no signs or alcohol or water in the oil yet [-o< so its not like i will have to change the oil often.

These are from last friday night, please excuse the camera man, he is fired lmao

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:37 pm 
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better get left tailight workin before the MAN sees it LOL!!!! [-X

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:30 pm 
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Should have some updates for yall this week. Parts are coming in tomorrow. Now with work and all I will see how quickly I can change some of the stuff and get it fired up. With the new hours of daylight that should help.


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:14 pm 
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Ok, got the parts and installed the 55 squirters. didnt seem to help much. installed the 40 idle air bleeds with the 55 squirters and that seemed to do the trick. i will take it out this weekend to the track and see whats up. Weather permitting anyway. [-o< Got the temp to 210* W/O the leanout valve for 4 minutes and let it heat soak.


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:37 pm 
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Things are looking better. That's good. Mine is too fat, I guess. I can't get it anywhere near 210*. Lee

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:29 pm 
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it took me a very long time to get there lol. how high will it get?


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:32 pm 
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Usually about 175* at the turnoff after a pass.

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 7:49 pm 
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Malibu355 wrote:
Got the temp to 210* W/O the leanout valve for 4 minutes and let it heat soak.



ITS TOO LEAN ON IDLE!!!! there's NO WAY an alcohol carb should built heat like that with out a lean out valve being opened..double check the mixture screws now,,start them at 1 3/4- 2 turns out from full close.

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:19 pm 
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Really? Why did you tell me to do it?

Quote:
My suggestion malibu355 is when you gwet this carb figured out, i would get the motor up and running and heat it up to 210-220 for about 4 minutes with the lean out closed. This will help the motor or rings cut into the glazing on the cylinder walls and help seal up alittle better..


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:29 am 
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Malibu355 wrote:
Really? Why did you tell me to do it?

Quote:
My suggestion malibu355 is when you gwet this carb figured out, i would get the motor up and running and heat it up to 210-220 for about 4 minutes with the lean out closed. This will help the motor or rings cut into the glazing on the cylinder walls and help seal up alittle better..



i said do this procedure using the lean out valve to get the motor up to temp then close it once the temp is reached...The way i read what you posted, is you stated you didn't need or use the lean out valve and it heated up like this with only the carb and NO lean out valve used..

I also stated if the carb only got you to this temp in 4 mins, then the carb itself is too lean..

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:46 am 
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I take it you went bigger on the idle air bleeds to lean the idle a little, is that right? If you have the front blades opened to far to get it to idle it will be in the transition circuit and will idle rich and you won't have any control over the idle with the idle mixture screws. This is why guys drill small holes in the blades to get enough air in the motor to close the blades and cover the transition slots. Have you tried opening the back blades enough to get a little more air in the motor so you can close the front blades a little? I would think you could solve that stumble I saw in your vids by opening the mixture screws about a eighth of a turn. Even if it is on alcohol it's still just a carburetor. I guess this is why a good carb guy is worth his weight in gold. It's funny to me that the younger crowd is lost if you can't tune it with a laptop. Hard to believe nothing's had a carb on it for about twenty five years. Dang I'm old.


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:57 am 
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tex, the stumble seems to be gone as of right now. the old pars were as follows. .045 squirter and .055 idle air bleeds. what i put in it and has fixed the stumble was a .040 air bleed and .055 squirter. it almost seems like a .035 air bleed would help it more but that seems like alot. so i went smaller on the air bleed to fatten up the idle a lil. i have no problems getting this to idle and i have not turned the air bleeds with the motor running, only off. right now they are set to 2 turns out from closed on all 4 corners. I tried going out and in on the mixture screws even playing with the timing to rid the stumble before i got the parts and it did not even help. now when i was turning mixture screws and fired the car back up the idle was different so i know the screws changed the idle. now, if the stumble appears when i get traction on a track ( i was testing this in my driveway with wheel spin) then i will try doing something with the blades and/or changing some more bleeds.

As far as alky to gas just being a carb, i dont know much at all about carbs so i am trying to learn. :nana_wrench:


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:19 pm 
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Turning the idle mixture screws on my Quick Fuel carb didn't seem to make much difference either. That was before we discovered it had raw fuel dripping off of one of the boosters from the float level being too high. I called Quick Fuel about it and the guy said that the thing has soooo much fuel going thru it that I would have to turn all four screws to make any difference in the idle. That really doesn't make sense to me. This is the first alky carb I've messed with but I know a gas carb will not idle right if the front blades are too far open and into the transition slot. I don't know about under a load, since I haven't even got my car painted, but it doesn't have any hessitation in it off of idle right now. I think it's pretty close to right. I'm really hoping to get by with this carb since I only gave a couple hundred bucks for it and it looks like new. I sure hope you can get it sorted out, since I know the car will wind up being quicker on the alcohol and you'll love not having to fight the heat down there in Houston. That's the main reason I wanted to run the stuff since it gets about 106 degrees out here a lot in the summer.


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 12:52 pm 
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well we will see how it goes this weekend. i have heard of the transition slot deal before though i thought it mainly had to do with setting the secondary blades but oh well, learn something new everyday. Also when i said the screws didnt make a difference i was meaning in the stumble. the idle changed quite a bit. i know im gonna like the alky, heck i like it more already.


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