Reading Plugs in Kohler V Twin

Thanks for checking on my progress.

I have 1 side assembled and the other side disassembled. The second side had started a mild leak; you could see the exhaust marks on the head on the outside of the gasket, but the gasket was in much better shape than the first side. I have a couple of pictures on the camera of the 2nd head, but they are not very good. I am glad I decided to go for both sides. While removing the head nuts on the 2nd head, I noticed the same as on the first head...1 bolt was not nearly as tight as the other 3. It happened that the easy bolt was the first one I loosened on the 2nd head. On the first head, it was either the 3rd or 4th bolt that I loosened that was not as tight as the others, but it may have been the same nut on each side that was the loosest one. The one in question was on the exhaust side, which is the side that fails.

I spent way too much time on the first head. First I used a large flat fine file on the gasket surface to ensure it was flat, and it wasn't. It was low where the gasket leaked and on the other side. As I ran the file across the head, a piece of aluminum would be picked up from the edge and would gouge the gasket surface. Then I put some 220-grit paper on the file for a while, then I had the idea to put the paper on a cabinet door and rub the head on it in circles. That worked much better and I could see how uneven the surface was from the file, but now in the other direction than when I started. I was able to make it flat and put it together.

It was difficult to hold the rocker arms while torquing the bolt, but I figured it out. I also had to remove the lifters to bleed them down with my drill press, so that took some time. Then I had to figure out how to lift the rocker over the pushrod, but I figured out how to get that done. It is very strange that the rocker arms have oil holes in the pushrod pocket, but the pushrods are solid. I am not quite sure how they are lubricated.

The second side is just disassembled. I don't have any time in the evenings, so it just gets worked on, on the weekend afternoons. I should have it together this weekend.

The good news is that after assembling the head, it passed my brakecleaner test; the valves did not leak. Also, a dry compression check on the first side was back to 180 lbs, like the second side was before I took it apart.

I didn't finish reassembly this weekend.

While torquing the valve covers, I pulled the threads out of one of the heads, so now I have to drill and put in a threaded insert. The torque specs are all in inch pounds and I don't have an inch pound wrench, so I divided by 12 and used my 3/8 click torque wrench. Unfortunately, the setting was not very accurate since it was near the bottom of the scale at 7.33 foot pounds (88 inch pounds). It was 95 in my garage and that may have also had an affect on the accuracy. I used my digital torque calibrator and discovered I was putting more like 100 inch pounds on the bolt. It felt like too much, but I trusted the wrench. At least the bolt did not break, that would have been worse.

The breakage occurred at 5:30 and of course, the local hardware store closed at 5.

I have a Sturtevant inch pound beam wrench, but it only goes up to 50 inch pounds, so it only gets used for valve covers.

I may just use the calibrator in beep mode to set the torque I want to reach and use it as a torque wrench.

I considered a Harbor Freight 20-200 inch pound wrench, but of course, they are not on sale! I never thought I would need one, so I didn't buy one when I had the opportunity.

I only have to install the brace that connects to both valve covers and also braces the air cleaner (I wish there was a better way), an elbow for the intake and the air cleaner, exhaust...and torque the valve covers. Then I have to bolt the engine back to the frame and adjust the belt tension to the hydraulic pump.

This is true. My engine is newer (2002?) so it uses studs and nuts, instead of bolts, so the threads are harder to pull.

I noticed that one of the holes in the intake manifold for the long studs for the carburetor, spacers, and elbow is not blind, so I added some sealer on that stud.

The compression on the bad side is now 180. The other side is now 185. I would have expected the bad side to be higher since I had to rub so much more off to make it flat, but I had to do about the same for both sides. I hope the block is flat, or else the head will not be happy.

I hope this thing works. If not, I am going to have to look for another new engine (different spec, but same crankshaft). The Magic Circle spec engine is about $800 more than another one with the same crank. I don't need to have a new starter, air cleaner, etc. for $800.

[-o<

It's alive!

I finished 2 weeks ago and used it that same afternoon. No more smoke, no more crankcase fumes.

Marc

Update:

So far still running good. The valve covers may leak a bit; I am seeing what looks like a thin film of oil creeping upwards on the valve covers. It is evident because the dust from mowing is sticking to it.

Also, the blades don't disengage properly anymore. The engine location adjuster is in the same place it was when I removed the engine; I did not touch the adjuster. The adjuster is to set the hydraulic pump belt tension (measured as distance between idler and frame=1 inch). I haven't measured the distance, but it looks about right. When I first run the machine, the blades don't turn, but when I shut the blades off after I am finished mowing, they slow down greatly, but keep on turning slowly and sometimes get back up to full speed. This behavior will continue until another cold start.

Any ideas what is up with the blade belt? I would expect everything to be back where it was and not need any further adjustment.