I ordered a can from Dixie. The guy that has my column does body work and has a paint booth so once the bowl arrives and we make sure it works I’ll see what he has to say about painting it also. I’m going to look around locally for the adhesion promoter. The shipping on this stuff is brutal lol
New guy 79 factory 4 speed wagon.
- Thread starter Mighty
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The bowl from Brock was delivered today. My brother took it next door to compare to the factory column and said it was about 2 inches shorter. I’m hoping I can get up here early enough tomorrow after work to take a look and get some comparison pictures.
You have the measurement I made from the top to the dash. If the new one is that long or longer, you are OK.
Would you please measure the overall length of the broken shroud and of the Brock shroud? I would like to include those dimensions in my website when I next make an update.
Those may be the box dimensions. But, since there are 2 widths, it may be the part dimensions.
If it is nearly 6 inches long, the bottom will be hidden by the dash.
If it is nearly 6 inches long, the bottom will be hidden by the dash.
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Not going to the shop tonight so let’s get side tracked for a moment. I can’t remember if I’ve asked you or not but what is your opinion on flat tappet cams? Reason I ask is that it sure does sound like they’re junk these days? I’ve done some reading and watched some videos but it keeps popping back up when I’m glancing around the internet. Some people have said it’s an oil issue from modern oil and other say it’s from junk modern lifters. Back before I ordered my heads my brother asked if I wanted to go down the roller cam road while it was all apart and before I ordered the heads set up for a flat tappet cam but I decided against it. Of course I at the time I didn’t realize there was so many problems with flat tappet cams. Some people say it’s all internet hype but I’m getting worried now. The cam in the wagon was purchased in 2001 or so, so maybe the lifters were a little better quality? I can even remember back then changing the oil in the car and running zinc additive. If the oil is part of the problem now days it gives me pause. I’d hate to get it going after all of this time then flatten a lobe or something
I put a new flat tappet cam in my Monte Carlo in 2010. I bought the cam and lifters in the mid 1990s. I used full synthetic oil to hopefully minimize wear. I have had no issues. I used a proper break-in oil and procedure.
I agree, there is a lot of discussion, and the common theme includes use of a new cam and lifters. Some claim the lifters are remanufactured or that the taper on the bottom of the lifter is wrong, and others blame the lack of zinc additive. In the early 1980s, GM had a problem with bad cams losing a lobe due to improper hardness.
A retrofit roller cam and lifters are pricey, and you also need to have a cam button since your block is pre-1987.
I don't recall you changing your cam. Since your cam is already broken in, I feel if you use full synthetic oil and you will be fine.
I agree, there is a lot of discussion, and the common theme includes use of a new cam and lifters. Some claim the lifters are remanufactured or that the taper on the bottom of the lifter is wrong, and others blame the lack of zinc additive. In the early 1980s, GM had a problem with bad cams losing a lobe due to improper hardness.
A retrofit roller cam and lifters are pricey, and you also need to have a cam button since your block is pre-1987.
I don't recall you changing your cam. Since your cam is already broken in, I feel if you use full synthetic oil and you will be fine.
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