would like to know who makes the best rear control arms for a malibu? mostly strip but some street driving.thank you.
malibu rear control arm strip/street?
- Thread starter malibu80kc
- Start date
We make the best ones!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60
Hit me up with your goals and I can help you pick and set everything up.
What is your budget? What engine? How much tire? How fast do you think your car will be going?
ramey
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_60
Hit me up with your goals and I can help you pick and set everything up.
What is your budget? What engine? How much tire? How fast do you think your car will be going?
ramey
Not to hijack the thread, but I don't want to start a new one just for my spacific question when this thread is already on the right path.
Ramey,
I have the same question as the original poster, but i'm the other way around, mostly street, but test-n-tune sessions during track season...From what i've read everyone says adjustable uppers and non adjustable lowers are the way to go.
last season my best time was 8.5 seconds in the 1/8th mile on 10 year old worn out street tires.
1980 Pontiac Grand Lemans Safari station wagon
489 big block chevy est. 600 HP
TH-400 trans with a 2500-2800 stall
Ford 9 inch with 3.50 gears
current tires are 235/60/15
Over the winter I plan on doing a frame notch and getting atleast a 275/60/15 drag radial
I have major traction problems, I know a lot of it is in the tires but I know some of it is in my suspension not planting the power
Current rear suspension set up:
Stock springs, home made boxed upper and lower control arms with poly bushings. a factory sway bar. bilstein shocks. When I was racing I had my tire pressure set at 22-25 PSI.
I don't know if you need all of that information, but I just wanted to be as through as possible...and if I left anything out just let me know.
Ramey,
I have the same question as the original poster, but i'm the other way around, mostly street, but test-n-tune sessions during track season...From what i've read everyone says adjustable uppers and non adjustable lowers are the way to go.
last season my best time was 8.5 seconds in the 1/8th mile on 10 year old worn out street tires.
1980 Pontiac Grand Lemans Safari station wagon
489 big block chevy est. 600 HP
TH-400 trans with a 2500-2800 stall
Ford 9 inch with 3.50 gears
current tires are 235/60/15
Over the winter I plan on doing a frame notch and getting atleast a 275/60/15 drag radial
I have major traction problems, I know a lot of it is in the tires but I know some of it is in my suspension not planting the power
Current rear suspension set up:
Stock springs, home made boxed upper and lower control arms with poly bushings. a factory sway bar. bilstein shocks. When I was racing I had my tire pressure set at 22-25 PSI.
I don't know if you need all of that information, but I just wanted to be as through as possible...and if I left anything out just let me know.
Hey 1980 and gang.
No problem on the thread participation.
A drag radial is of course a good starting point. You can almost never have too much tire. Poly bushings are also good.
If you have stock springs they're most likely progressive ("cargo") spring where there is different spacing as you go up the coil. Drag cars tend to not perform well with those. You're better off with linear rate from a sedan or aftermarket drag spring.
We sell a relocation bracket to lower the rear of the lower trailing arms. This relocation helps plant the rear on launch.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_62&products_id=68
A spring upgrade, bigger tire and relo brackets would be an excellent start.
To get the weight to transfer to the rear, you might want a drag specific shock on the front. These shocks allow you to adjust the rebound (or "extension") to a light setting so the front comes up more easily.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_64_154&products_id=70
To finish things off, you may want to consider an adjustable upper so you can optimize your pinion angle. You can do that last after you know how your car is going to sit.
If you're working on you car over the winter, you could sign up for our newsletter and get the latest updates such as when our drag bar is going to be released. This bar will bolt under the rear end and have links to the chassis. It will keep the car flat and will allow preload so you can get both your tire marks even. Our house car (2001 Firebird) used to have a big split in the launch stripes and now it's dead even.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=subscribe
Hope these tips help. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Happy Launching.
ramey
No problem on the thread participation.
A drag radial is of course a good starting point. You can almost never have too much tire. Poly bushings are also good.
If you have stock springs they're most likely progressive ("cargo") spring where there is different spacing as you go up the coil. Drag cars tend to not perform well with those. You're better off with linear rate from a sedan or aftermarket drag spring.
We sell a relocation bracket to lower the rear of the lower trailing arms. This relocation helps plant the rear on launch.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_62&products_id=68
A spring upgrade, bigger tire and relo brackets would be an excellent start.
To get the weight to transfer to the rear, you might want a drag specific shock on the front. These shocks allow you to adjust the rebound (or "extension") to a light setting so the front comes up more easily.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_64_154&products_id=70
To finish things off, you may want to consider an adjustable upper so you can optimize your pinion angle. You can do that last after you know how your car is going to sit.
If you're working on you car over the winter, you could sign up for our newsletter and get the latest updates such as when our drag bar is going to be released. This bar will bolt under the rear end and have links to the chassis. It will keep the car flat and will allow preload so you can get both your tire marks even. Our house car (2001 Firebird) used to have a big split in the launch stripes and now it's dead even.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=subscribe
Hope these tips help. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Happy Launching.
ramey
eng 383 on the bottle,tire 295/65r15,hoping for low 11 to high 10. i'm all so going to notch the frame and put 6 point cage in car. but also keeping rear seat in car. i got a pair of umi lower control arms single adj band new off of racingjunk.com
i got them cheap so i went ahaed and bought them but after going to your web site would i be better off with you lift bars?
Ramey,
I know the adjustable uppers are for making pinion angle adjustments,so that under load the pinion is better lined up with the rest of the drive line, but what benefit do adjustable lowers offer?
I know the adjustable uppers are for making pinion angle adjustments,so that under load the pinion is better lined up with the rest of the drive line, but what benefit do adjustable lowers offer?
what is the part # for the brackets and what upper control arms should i use with them lowers and springs, and shocks?
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