Big Block wont start after install.....

thumper

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Jul 11, 2012
63
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
My leak down tester is crap. I am getting lots of blow by the rings I am guessing.

May bad for buying an engine with going off the shops word that is compression tested good and I void my warranty with the cam.

Now I am looking into rebuilding it or getting another.
 

prairiehotrodder

Pro Stocker
Dec 17, 2005
1,576
4
38
46
Melfort Saskatchewan Canada
i think you need to get someone that knows what they are doing to help you. Someone that knows how to line up timing marks properly, adjust valves properly and install a distributor properly. Once those things are done i bet it will start. You don't need a leak down tester or a compression tester to start your motor. Your doing to many things at once and just need help from someone who can physically be there. These kind of things are hard to get help with from forums because we can't be sure of how you are doing things.
brian
 

Barry 85 SS

Frequent Racer
Aug 8, 2005
662
0
0
Newport News, Va
You said you got compression when you backed the lifters off, are you sure you have hydraulic lifters and not solids? If you pull solids down after the pushrods get tight the valves won't close and you won't have any compression.
 

thumper

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Jul 11, 2012
63
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
I am going to put some oil down the cylinders this week and see what I get on all of them. I do know a little about cars and damn certain I have the timing marks on after double checking them and installed the distributor right.

I picked up a used engine that I got a good deal on so if I don't need it, I can resell it.

I remember guys putting in junkyard (Honda or Mitsubishi engines and having to put some oil in the cylinders to get some compression.

Been a lot of years since I worked on a push rod engine and a few years since the dealership at that. Been managing topless girls too long and b**bs are all I see. hahahahaha
 

thumper

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Jul 11, 2012
63
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Time to start thinking basics and I see my posts are getting a little confusing.

Bought a used 454 that they said was good with compression and gave me the readings. (Like an idiot) I never verified.
Sat a year before starting.
When starting sounded right off the bat had no compression.
Distributor was 180 out, due to thinking timing marks lined up then that is TDC #1, Wrong!
Loosen both #1 push rods and could hear a little compression.
Both back on put a gauge on, no compression.
Harbor Freight Cylinder Leakdown test shows acceptable leakage. (Faulty second gauge)
Finally just add air to cylinder and can hear out dipstick and lifter valley.

Compression test with gauge intake off, 0 then got some up to 70lbs but zero in 3.

Talked with my ex dealership buddy who races bbc and agreed never seen rings soo worn will not start or give 0 compression.

Going to put intake back on fully charge battery, squirt some oil in all cylinders after doing a dry run in all to get a base line reading. Then see if maybe they aren't sealing due to oil being drained off or sitting so long .

I basically started skipping steps as I was getting ahead of myself. Engines are basic and I always knew it had something to due with no compression but got stuck on the leak down and cam timing.

It doesn't even have enough compression (or really vacuum to pull the fuel mixture all the way into the intake port by the head)
 

thumper

Weekend Racer
Thread starter
Jul 11, 2012
63
0
0
Phoenix, AZ
Well I got it running.
Pulled the cylinder head last night and everything looked good. Dirty and nothing really clean around the edges. Not much of a ridge and no abnormal wear marks on the walls. I dumped a decent amount of oil in that sides cylinders and put the head back on. Cranked it over with old spark plugs in several times and after a little compression came back.

Put it together and it runs!
 

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