i live in an area of eastern ky that has one of the best GM tuners anywhere. when i get the car done there are several other local tuners to come put a good enough tune on it to get it up and running. the motor will be mainly N/A till i get some balls up to run the juice. it will be a cam only with a car intake (may get the ls1 intake to hold me till i can swing an ls6), and probably some type of LT header. so in all........ lt's, car intake, cam. thats it. i'll probably get an external regulator, and run an external efi pump. i dont see why i would have to have a sump of any sort... just put gas in it lol. i'd like to have brp headers... hell the whole swap kit, but we'll see how the cash flows when the time gets closer, because i plan to gut the inside and paint it while its appart so i can get to the 'Bay also...
5.3 v. 6.0 couple quick q's
- Thread starter 360demonRT
- Start date
I'm running a stock tank with a Comp Engineering sump. It was $75 bucks through JEGS and I had a local radiator shop weld it in, they charged me $80 for the labor. For the rest of the fuel system I picked up an Aeromotive A1000 pump, with Aeromotive filters, fuel rails and FPR. It was a little pricey, about a $1000, but I'm planning on some future mods and wanted to only purchase my fuel parts once. You can do it cheaper by using a walbro and stock rails, etc.
On a side note be careful with the BRP headers as they are designed to work WITH BRP's engine mount kit. I bought just their midlength headers for my Monte and the passenger side fit fine, but the driverside hit on the steering linkage and gave me fits for days.
On a side note be careful with the BRP headers as they are designed to work WITH BRP's engine mount kit. I bought just their midlength headers for my Monte and the passenger side fit fine, but the driverside hit on the steering linkage and gave me fits for days.
so if i get brp headers since i'm splurging anyway, i need to go on and get the mounts... makes sense. i thought about just running solids, guess thats soemthing i need to talk to them about
Well, if your going to get the intake, might as well get the ls6 intake, if we're doing it right, might as well do it right the first time. Ebay has tehm going for about 300 per, which is right wherever I've looked. The brp motor mounts will work with the car intake, but with the truck intake it sits the engine a little too high, I found that out the hard way. I also orderred their mid length, and had a small problem on drivers side with the steering shaft so I ordered the upgraded one from a jeep grand cherokee, if you look on ebay their about 50 bucks and get rid of the ragjoint. You can also go the way that boosted lq9 went, he bought the one from flaming river, though a bit prettier, it works about the same 
The differences in the 5.3 vs the 6.0 is just the bore. Just think of the LS1/LS6 family like the SBC family. The differences in LQ4 and LQ9 are the pistons so if you are planning to rebuild and stretch out the cylinders, get whichever is cheaper. I don't know how well they fit but the truck manifolds flow better than headers, and the truck intake has a ton of torque. The LS6 cam is rated at I beleive 525 lift? Defnately get the 6.0, you will wish you did later on.
And oh yea, if you plan on running forced air, find 317 heads, they have a larger CC, where as the 243 heads are for N/A
And oh yea, if you plan on running forced air, find 317 heads, they have a larger CC, where as the 243 heads are for N/A
Similar threads
