manual brake conversion

onefastermonte85

Pro Stocker
Jun 23, 2005
1,877
2
38
erie,pa
air still in the line wouldn't cause this would it?
I'm just wondering why the rear brakes weren't locking up when I gave them more pressure.

Also on the prop valve, i put the front lines in the opposite places, just because the lines were already bent for the stock prop valve in those locations and the new prop valve had it switched. I figured its going the same place, it shouldn't matter.

i am running the larger line after the prop valve to the rear brakes, but at the master cylinder i am running 3/16 line to the prop valve for the front/rear brakes. COuld this be a problem?
 

onefastermonte85

Pro Stocker
Jun 23, 2005
1,877
2
38
erie,pa
on wilwoods site

I have a hard pedal, but the car is very difficult to stop. What is the problem?
A: Common contributors to "hard pedal, won't stop" issues are an oversized master cylinder bore and/or inadequate pedal lever ratio. Another contributing factor is the “aggressiveness” of the pad. Disc brakes require approximately 900-1200 PSI at the caliper for effective functioning. We recommend that you use Wilwood Quick Check Pressure Gauges to measure your pressure at the caliper. If you are not generating the required pressure, we recommend increasing your pedal ratio, and or going to a smaller bore master cylinder. See our Troubleshooting Guide for more complete information, and make sure you have Wilwood Quick Check Pressure Gauges available to assist you in evaluating the problem.You can also contact a Wilwood Sales Technician at 805-388-1188 or email [email protected]
 

onefastermonte85

Pro Stocker
Jun 23, 2005
1,877
2
38
erie,pa
Well the brakes worked tonight when i took it out. I think some crap was on the rotors. I rode the brake for a little bit. It ended up working after a bit of driving, so now i have to adjust the rear brakes because they were locking up a bit. :) woohoo
 

gastrader35

Daily Driver
Aug 21, 2009
45
0
0
COLUMBUS OHIO
I USED A 85 S-10 MANUAL BRAKE MOUNTING PLATE FROM THE JUNKYARD AND WENT TO NAPA AND GOT A MASTER AND PUSHROD FOR A 71 CHEVELLE HAD TO DO A LITTLE TRIMMING ON THE ROD BUT WORKED PERFECT. THAT IS A VERY NICE KIT. WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND OUT ABOUT THAT BEFORE ALL THE TRIPS TO THE YARD AND PARTS STORE..
 

madmaxx57

Amateur Racer
Oct 5, 2010
237
0
0
DURAND IL
ok, why cant you just use a master cylinder from a manual brake malibu?..not as pretty as the kit..but wouldnt all the lines fit correctly? is the pedal different as far as hole location man.vs power..i'm looking at doing the kit until i saw that there is a manual brake malibu factory..i must be missing something???
 

jmerc

Amateur Racer
Sep 23, 2009
182
0
0
staten island, ny
Im with you Madmax, I just read through 20 pages of posts and am still confused. I have an 85 Monte, front disc, rear drum. Right now Im running a linelock. To acomplish this I capped off one of the 2 front brake lines at the proportioning valve then from the other port at the proportioning valve I ran a line to the input on the line lock then from the out to a T and to the front brakes. Now if Im reading this all correctly I can replace the booster/master Im using now with the new plate and master using the same plumbing I have now and possibly need an adapter fitting for the larger brake line to make it fit the new master. Now comes the question of the additional valve for 10 psi. Do I need this and if so where do I plumb it in?
 

ecc_33

Amateur Racer
Jun 21, 2015
289
0
0
amanda ohio
jmerc said:
i don't have one but I have little brake pedal "feel" and my brakes are complete crap. They won't lock up under a panic stop. I bought the manual brake conversion kit from the manual brake kit above at the top of the page. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of the beast with manual brakes and if it is i'll have to get some willwoods.
 

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