993 heads info?

monzaz

Dragway Regular
Aug 10, 2005
704
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Richfield, Oh
www.jdrace.com
Ok this helps, Do your 305 heads have new springs or original springs?

I do not believe your heads are killing the time. You just have too big a cam with not enough stall for THE DRAG RACE TRACK (this is to optimize your 60 foot. ) With that combo and heads and supposed compression you should be well into the 1.60 sixty foot times


The duration is just too much for your Intake and stall to overcome at low end. The cam you picked pulls to 6500-7000 and you shift at 5800...??? SO yes the potential for more power and torque are there but your combo is off. SINCE you are drag racing TORQUE IS KING
You need as much torque at at least 1000 into stall speed.

SO if you have a 3800 stall you want at least 2/3 of your full torque out put in the 2800 range on the cam. (THIS IS FOR DRAG RACE optimal launch)
Your cam probably has good torque starting at 3000-4000 range- you need a 4000-5000 stall for the launch and 60 foot you need.

JUST not much you can do with the wrong combo you have to deal with it - make the best of it as you are selling it anyway right.

AGAIN the heads should not be the issue- try looking into your ignition What is the initial timing (balancer) and what is your totally timing? (when all your timing comes in on the mechanical distributor)
What ignition are you using this will be another area to help on your cars power and all around performance with ANY HEAD combo?

We ran a 274 comp cam with roughly the same set-up better heads little bit more compression (12-1) 11.40 all day on a 3000# car.
4.10 gears 4000 stall 1.40 60 foot.

12.90 combo street car 3000# weight - 280 comp cam Magnum hydraulic cam, 327 true flat top 9 to 9.5 to 1, 041 heads (like fuelie heads 1.94 1.5 valves (NO PORTING AT ALL stock just reconditioned, seats springs guides etc...normal stuff) RPM Edelbrock intake, unilite distrib (12-14* initial / 38* total advance) 2500 stall, 3.73 rear gears 24" slick (real gear ratio 4.10 most likely because of the undersized slick...we were trying to keep a 7.5 rear together here...lol :D) 700 cfm dble pump holley carb This is a great street strip combo VERY FUN ON THE STREET... ET is respectable but will not impress the real drag race guys.

WHEN you build any car you really have to make a choice as to its MAJOR use...if it is every weekend to the track and that is most important to you, BUILD THE CAR TO RUN THE TRACK and suffer with the street low end- sluggish shifts on standard around town driving.
IF you want a exciting street car, you want the cam that gives you the most lift with little amount of duration (215-235 @ .050. 1.6 rockers help on a 260-280 lift cam get even more lift on the intake valve - NOT affecting the duration. Tinkering with initial timing will also create low end torque quicker, LIGHTER distributor advance weight springs will to again help the cause. You need a distributor that can be adjusted as you do not want your full advance over 40* timing at full throttle - unless your engine is modified to take it. (usually never needed over 40* anyway)
REMEMBER - with all this tinkering other things will suffer gas mileage being one of them - some time heat (advance etc. so do what your car can handle) Be reasonable as there is a LIMIT for every motor.
For all you know your could be at your limits and have done everything you can with your combo to eek the last bit out... (I doubt it on this one )

IF you get caught up in the TRACK ET's you will kill yourself on the street driving... (naturally aspiration motor) ET's get quicker and street ability will go down.

There is a tolerance level for each person. we are all different and will all have a different level of what we think is acceptable for a street car. My guide line is if you can not freeway drive for a 1/2 hour WITH FREEWAY NORMAL SPEEDS it is NO LONGER A STREET vehicle driver.

This is where OVERDRIVE trannies have become the norm and give cars advantage to race and drive to the track.

I am rambling on now...lol

If the heads are that inexpensive and you have the time Go for it and see what happens WORSE case you will have that knowledge first hand. That is how GOOD REAL knowledge is learned. Just try not to learn the same thing over and over...lol. :) JIm
 

Brian79

Frequent Racer
Thread starter
Aug 21, 2008
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Wataga, IL
If my cam makes power up to 7000rpm and my heads are done flowing by 5500 rpm then how could it not be my heads that are not killing me? I should have but in a bigger convertor but I think the heads are the biggest issue on my motor. I didn't know anything about Bowtie stuff until I did this Malibu and I didn't find this site until after the car/motor was done.
Not even the point , I am asking if this motor will be a decent running street motor with the 993 heads. I will not be racing this motor anymore just want to put it into a 80's rear wheel drive car and drive it on the street.
 

bowtie81

Moderator
Mar 28, 2008
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sarnia, ontario canada
Those heads will work just fine on the street aswell at the track. I had no problem taking mine to 7200rpm and they will out flow those 305 heads.
 

monzaz

Dragway Regular
Aug 10, 2005
704
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Richfield, Oh
www.jdrace.com
I am asking if this motor will be a decent running street motor with the 993 heads.
Answer- (As stated - IF you keep all the same parts identical trans stall gear ratio etc. It will have less torque than with the 305 heads . As far as it running good on the street THAT is entirely up to your liking as YOU personally will find that out when you swap the heads.I am comparing what you have and are use to .(YOUR LOW SPEED OPERATION WILL SUFFER PART THROTTLE WILL SUFFER)
IT WILL STILL BURN OUT ON FULL THROTTLE NO PROBLEM AS YOU HAVE A 3800 STALL. :)
-AS I stated LOWERING the compression LOWERS the output of the motors power period.
-Of course the car will drive and run... as to how good on the street is to be determined by what you think.


I will not be racing this motor anymore just want to put it into a 80's rear wheel drive car and drive it on the street.[/quote]
-If you are adding weight (80's car heavier than your race lightened car) to the car AGAIN that will kill more power from the motor.

IF you are looking to decompress the motor for the street and sell YES it will work for you just fine.

If your ever going to build another motor with stock GM heads FACTORY keep the cam lift under .500 lift and 230 -235 .050 duration and a good dual plane intake like rpm or stealth etc.
If your using over .500 lift cam use a 200cc runner head at least with 2.02 valve. at least. and the single plane.

Obviously if you are running pump gas you need to match the cam, head combustion volume with the compression you will be using. (which unfortunately you did not do with the 305 heads) But that may have been the best you could get at the time and that is fine also...)

I will have to let this go as I think we are beating a dead horse. :)

I do wish you the best on your choice. Please let us know how it goes. Jim
 

Brian79

Frequent Racer
Thread starter
Aug 21, 2008
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Wataga, IL
Thanks Monza for your time.

I have decided on not using the other heads and use this Bowtie motor as a boat anchor as all chevy motors should be used as.
 

monzaz

Dragway Regular
Aug 10, 2005
704
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0
Richfield, Oh
www.jdrace.com
LOL. So what motor are you going to race? Or street?

Good luck... sounds like you have a lot of thinking and planning to do.

Every make motor FORD MOPAR CHEVY PONTIAC OLDS BUICK... has potential to be a GREAT street OR RACE motor... IT takes the right parts and combination's to get it done.

YOU have to pick what you want your motor to do and build it to that use...

Your trying to race with mostly street factory parts. it is all limited to the design and strength of your parts. (and you got 12.61 out of it ...THAT is pretty darn good... :) AND how much did you spend?

You can not run a domed piston on the street and expect it to have street manners. it is not 1960 with experimental octane gas on ever corner...THANK THE EPA FOR THAT... :)

BUT if you look at the motors now, LS in particular they are the NEW motor for EVERYTHING. PLUS computer control is huge and fuel injection etc. SBC gen I is still the bang for the buck with the correct combo. JIM
 

Brian79

Frequent Racer
Thread starter
Aug 21, 2008
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Wataga, IL
I knew this was a race motor only but was just hoping to use it on the street so I could get some money back. I really don't want it to just sit on the stand and go to waste. I knew that the stock iron heads I put on the motor weren't the best but cash is limited! When I built the motor I was hoping for 12.80 with the combo so I am not disappointed in its performance, since I had NO idea what I was doing. Just wished I would have known then what I know now. I learned alot about combos doing it and reading other post from this forum. You guys are great. Even though I wont be running the Bu again I still check this forum alot. I like car knowledge.

I went back to running my Mopar(65 Dodge Coronet). 426 Max Wedge car. I built it to run in the Nostalgia Super Stock series. I run it in the 10.50 index.
I am selling my 79 Malibu to finish up this project. I didn't think I would hate to sell the Malibu but I have alot of time and effort in the Bu. I grew fond of it. If the deal falls through on the Bu I may just keep it and do some tuning on the 355 so in a couple of years my oldest can run it at the track. It will make a good safe starter car. I put a 8pt roll bar in it for that reason.
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monzaz

Dragway Regular
Aug 10, 2005
704
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0
Richfield, Oh
www.jdrace.com
The old arm and leg mopar motor... :) Gotta spend an arm and a leg to build it. NOT to say it does not GO!

I have a friend that races small block stroked (360 bored and stroked 413 cubes) 10.30 Roller motor

Nostalgic races are cool and fun to watch. Very cool car. I like them because they look like a car not a space ship ...lol.

Have fun ...that is MOST IMPORTANT! Jim
 

Brian79

Frequent Racer
Thread starter
Aug 21, 2008
383
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Wataga, IL
The arm and leg thing is why I went with the Chevy to start with. I need close to $2500 just for an Indy Cylinder Head NSS legal intake and carbs. The 65' was a Cruz night/show car so we didn't want to mess it up to race it. One day my father and I were talking and found out that we haven't driven the 65' (4years) since we started racing the Bu. We then decided to swap it over to a strip car so it would get some use. Didn't realize how many Bu's were at the track. You don't see very many Old Mopars at the track so the looks/questions about the car KINDA makes up for the money spent. KINDA! I had tons of fun running the Malibu. I am sure I will have even more fun running the brand I grew up loving.

I will always have a soft spot in my heart for the Malibu. AND I will always hate Mustangs.
 

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