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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 4:00 am 
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Location: Vancouver BC
Please read.

After much deliberation. Was wondering how to show the clutch setup without any liability issues. So if you are planning on following my setup. Understand that this is how I did it on my car through trail and error, so use it as a guide. And you do so at your own risk. Also I did not take pictures when doing the original setup. But will hopefully help you in avoiding needless headaches. As I will not do the work for you. You will have to figure a few things out for your self. Due to the variables of the cars I will also not give you exact measurements when it pertains to the actual location of the master pivot rod location on the clutch pedal. You will need a welder. Remember these are only suggestions.

First establish your parameters.
1-Compression stop. Mine are solid. Adjustable by filing or welding. You could make yours adjustable.
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2-Extension stop. Got lucky here, the clutch starter switch mount and welded extension solved this problem. This will give you the working parameters of the pedal.
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Second establish the location of the master and its angle. You can rotate it for proper alignment with the clutch pedal.
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Note the g body firewall design and length of the hose connecting the master to the slave. Are there any objects in the way? i.e brake booster.
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Also the location of the transmission must be taken into account. Due to the length of the line. (Master to slave). And header clearance.
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Once you have your parameters set then move on to the pedal. This is how the F-body LT1 T56 pedals look like.
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Side view. Notice how the master cylinder mounting location is spaced vs the brake booster mounting location.
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The master will be more in line with the brake booster mounting location in the G-body.
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You will have to weld a piece onto the clutch pedal due to the length of the master rod length. You will also have to determine the correct location through trial and measuring. Note. Tack everything during mock up before final welding!
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If your wondering, I used the old brake pedal for the extension piece.
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Once your done and after mock up should look roughly like this.
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Side view.
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Install and check for full movement of the master. Extended.
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Compressed.
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Pedal height.
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Once everything is in it should look like this. But hopefully cleaner.
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And be easy enough to depress the pedal by hand.
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Now I did use a brass rod as a bushing If you guys are wondering for the rod end. Thread and rubber don't mix.
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And yes the rod had to be modified to push correctly into the master.
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Now you can enjoy the 6spd even in traffic, with no fatigue.
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Hope this helps.
Jerry

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81 Malibu- work in progress.

GW suspension, 350, T56, 8.5" Auburn 3.42,


Last edited by 6spdmalibu on Thu Apr 15, 2010 1:11 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 5:49 am 
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Looks good. Nice work. My only concern is when you press the pedal it looks like you'll be pushing the rod at an angle into the master? Wouldn't that eventually wear out the seals in the master?


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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:19 pm 
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brrymnvette wrote:
Looks good. Nice work. My only concern is when you press the pedal it looks like you'll be pushing the rod at an angle into the master? Wouldn't that eventually wear out the seals in the master?


It is very difficult to get a good side picture of everything in place. But that is why the actuation rod is slightly bent.
The rod pushes in straight into the master. Another reason is that the rod is long enough not to change angles too much. Have put on about 20k miles on this setup with no problems.

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81 Malibu- work in progress.

GW suspension, 350, T56, 8.5" Auburn 3.42,


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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 11:57 pm 
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great write up!!! thanks!!! and also thanks for info on twisting the master i think thats the direction im gonna go in should do the trick, although thats another 2 holes i have to drill into the firewall :oops: oh well trial and error!
did you use anything off the f-body assembly or just the geometry and dimensions?

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I use to be "bu min v8"

'79 malibu classic, factory bucket/floorshift car: 355, vortec heads, Holley 670, Edelbrock RPM airgap, Comp extreme energy 268, Dynomax ceramic coated headers, 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust from Jegs, T56, 8.5 GN rear, 4.10 richmond gear, moser axles Monte ss booster & master.

fastest 1/4 mi = 13.211 @ 100.78, 1.761 60 Ft on street tires! (700-r4) 12'S OR BUST!


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:58 am 
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bu min v8 wrote:
did you use anything off the f-body assembly or just the geometry and dimensions?


Believe it or not the geometry is quite different. Simply no. The g body clutch pedal is longer vs the f body. And due to the different location of the master the geometry is different. That is why the stroke of the master is the most important variable. Once you have the parameters of the g-body clutch pedal (compression stop and extension stop) and you know how much stroke the master has. Finally, after locating the master, finding out where to mount the actuation rod becomes quite simple. Just double check you have full stroke. And that nothing binds.

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81 Malibu- work in progress.

GW suspension, 350, T56, 8.5" Auburn 3.42,


Last edited by 6spdmalibu on Thu Apr 15, 2010 3:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:41 pm 
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How bout that,I just found this thread! I guess I'm almost a month behind! Been busy though,Well Jerry that's about how I was thinking it shoud go,If you were to look under the dash of a 3rd gen F-body,I have a 92/5spd,the pedal is set up the same way,bracket coming off the front of the pedal (facing driver) so that's how I was planning to attack it,figured if it works in a Camaro! Well I'm not going to be upset that you did the research,I'll just have to get on to that project here directly! Keep up the good work! KillerDave

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81 Malibu Ex V-6 3spd,267 V-8 305 HO cam,600 Holley,HEI,Dougs Headers,3" Pypes exhaust w/ X-pipe,168 toothflywheel,11"clutch,
Muncie M-20 big spline trans,Hurst Comp Plus shifter,3 1/2" steel driveshaft,Moser 9" 3:50,Edelbrock adj uppers,Southside lowers,
Modified Moog springs,Cop Car gearbox,antisway bars & frame braces,
urethene bushings,Goodmark hood,More coming soon!


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 1:07 am 
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Thanks Dave. Slow process with the bu also, life always seems to get in the way. Lol.

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81 Malibu- work in progress.

GW suspension, 350, T56, 8.5" Auburn 3.42,


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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 13, 2010 11:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2010 5:01 pm
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Location: madison, wi
Will a t56 shifter clear a bench seat in a cutlass?


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