T-56 swap info

Doober

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Jun 2, 2003
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Thanks to all who have inadvertently contributed to this thread through replies to other posts on this forum
:D :nana_wrench: \:D/ bouncing.gif tongue_nah_nah.gif
 

Doober

Moderator
Thread starter
Jun 2, 2003
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Catalina, AZ
www.cardomain.com
Basic T-56 info
TREMEC'S OFFICIAL PAGE FOR THE T-56

A basic rundown of what's available as far as GM T-56 transmissions (thanks Chree):
  • GM LT1 T56 ('93-'97 F-Body): Works with Gen 1 SBC, you use the LT1 bellhousing and F-Body hydraulics with John Bzdel's pedal.
  • Aftermarket T56: has an adapter plate to mount the T56 to a traditional SBC bellhousing.
  • GM LS1 T56 ('98+ F-Body, GTO, etc.): can be mated to SBC with the McLeod modular bellhousing. LINK</SIZE>
<i></i>

Linkage
There are a few ways to install a T-56 into a G-Body, depending on what transmission you use and/or what linkage you use.
Starting with the linkage:
  • First, there's the factory F-Body linkage, which utilizes hydraulic master and slave cylinders. You can most likely pick these up at a local salvage yard, or purchase them new from an auto parts store (much cheaper at a salvage yard, also more chance of premature failure). There are also two types of available slave cylinders.
    One mounts on the F-Body bellhousing:
    amss0417003.jpg

    And the other actually slips over the input shaft, the cylinder itself pushes on the thowout bearing:
    amss0418003.jpg

    Weir Hot Rod Products also sells a new bellhousing to use with the F-Body (OEM) T-56, it includes a self-adjusting hydraulic throwout bearing, steel block plate (clutch cover), pressure and bleeding tubes (mounted on slave/t.o. bearing), and new bellhousing and transmission bolts. They also recommend a master cylinder from either McLeod or Wilwood for proper operation. This would be a good upgrade if you came across a screamin' deal on an OEM T-56 without a bellhousing, the kit also allows you to use a standard starter, where (I believe) the starter required the factory bellhousing is F-Body-specific.
  • Next is the factory style G-Body linkage, which you can now find numerous places, including eBay and various aftermarket suppliers (Mike's Montes, El Camino Parts, Honest Charley to name a few). Also keep in mind if you are switching from an automatic to a manual that you will need to relocate/remove the vacuum/wiring that runs through the firewall for cruise control, as it uses the same hole. Here is an exploded view of the entire pedal/linkage assembly:
    78-87%20%20clutch_1.jpg

    <SIZE size="100">EXCELLENT LINKhttp://imageevent.com/publicgallery/carsandtransportation/agbodybellhousings000<i></i> regarding factory linkage and bellhousings, covers both 153 tooth and 168 tooth flywheels.

    If you use the factory linkage, some things also need to be considered. An aftermarket T-56 can be used with the factory bellhousing/linkage as it has a standard Muncie/Saginaw/Borg Warner bolt pattern, but if you choose to use a Camaro/Firebird-specific transmission an adapter plate is required. There are two that I've seen so far, one is from THE GEAR BOX (Garden City, MI). Their adapter plate allows the use of an LT-1 T-56 on either a standard (Muncie/Saginaw/B.W.) bolt pattern or the slightly rotated (17º to the right) T-5 pattern, which was in the 3rd generation F-Body. The other adapter plate is from FORTE'S PARTS CONNECTION</I><i></i> (Framingham, MA) and allows the use of your factory (Muncie/Saginaw/B.W., NOT T-5) bellhousing with the T-56 from an LS-1 equipped car.

    The Gear Box's home page<i></i>
    Forte's home page<i></i>

    For those who already have the factory linkage, but their setup is getting slop in it, or just want an upgrade, Speed Direct has a tubular linkage setup (clutch rod, pedal to z-bar rod) with spherical ends on it that take out the slop that the original setup has.

Driveshaft
I haven't really found more than a couple sources for driveshaft length, so you might be best to measure it yourself to double check. I found a measurement for both a G-Body with 7.5" rearend, and an 8.5":
  • 7.5: 49¾" inches from the center of the rear u-joint to the tip of the output shaft - LINK</URL><i>http://www.darklair.com/T56.html</i> to "MikeD's" page (search the page for '49 3/4')
  • 8.5: 47¼" centerline to centerline of the u-joints - <I><URL url="http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/May.html">LINK to John Bzdel's page (search the page for '47.25')

Crossmember
Aftermarket crossmembers are available to retrofit a T-56 into a G-Body, one of the most well known companies is Crossmembers.com. The part number for their crossmember is RCT56, and it allows you to run the exhaust on both sides of the transmission, unlike the factory crossmember which only has provision on the passenger's side. The site also states that for a '78-'83 car will need PN FE100 (driver's side extension, adds 2 mounting holes), and that '84-'88 cars don't need this extra part. I could be wrong, but I believe I've read of people just drilling through the frame where needed on the driver's side. I've also read of 'Iceman' having a T-56 crossmember (his parts can be found via the main page of this site), but from the list I've seen on the main page only showed one lightweight crossmember (he also sells the extension listed previously for the driver's side).
 

79HurstOlds

Frequent Racer
Jun 14, 2005
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NW Ohio
I believe with the 8.5 rear the driveshaft length has to be 47.9". The stock length is 51.5 and the T56 is 3.57" longer than the 200-4R. Maybe John Bzdel's is shorter because of his LS motor??
 

MalibuMan1979

Frequent Racer
Aug 17, 2008
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flint, (lapeer), michigan
i love it. my friend is installing a t56 out of a f car in his 80 bu. he had a lot of questions about it. i told him, 'not to fear because the malibu racing people are full of info and are generous with their knowledge'. i was right. thanks all =D>
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Any one know what long tube headers fit with a hydraulic slave cylinder?
 

85_SS

Dragway Regular
Aug 13, 2004
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0
www.cardomain.com
Re:

79HurstOlds said:
...The stock length is 51.5 and the T56 is 3.57" longer than the 200-4R.

Stock driveshaft length with a 200-4R and 7.5/7.625" rear is 52.5" centre to centre.

EDIT: Disregard - just realized you are talking about an 8.5" rear, which is of course 1" shorter.
 

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