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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 5:15 pm 
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TNTS79 wrote:
I would think the upper control arm would fail looking at that picture... Guess its really not doing much of the work, good majority is done by the lower... How much travel did you gain by taking out the factory bump stop section?

I assure you, it's plenty strong. That control arm has 15000+ miles on it, hundreds of races and a whole bunch of hard wheelie landings on it. It hasn't even batted an eyelash yet. You'll never break that A-arm with the center cut out like that, still extremely strong.

Not sure how much the actual gain is, but I had 8 inches of travel from ride height.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 4:23 pm 
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Hi, I tried this trick or should i say a version of it. I didnt have to cut that much out because the side of my a arm was hittting the frame from the extra travel gained by only cutting out the factory stop. In the process of doing this I also free'd up my a arms so they move easier and added some 90-10 shocks. I can tell you this thing with a blip of the throttle now goes right to the top of travel instantly, maybe too fast now?

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 Post Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 10:07 pm 
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I have the UMI relocation brackets in the middle hole. Been 1.25 60ft on 275 radials. Stock susp 3400lb car with a V6.

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 Post Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:55 am 
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johnplogii wrote:
I have the UMI relocation brackets in the middle hole. Been 1.25 60ft on 275 radials. Stock susp 3400lb car with a V6.


That sounds like quite a V6! Glad your UMI relo's are working well. I have a feeling you might have a few other tuning tricks up your sleeve :D

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 Post Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 12:14 pm 
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Not sure if it's mentioned anywhere but for guys with non adjustable lowers, these brackets aren't going to do much for you except offset the rear end. I understand how they can work but with the same exact length lowers and the variance in the brackets, it can make the car's rear want to wander under acceleration. I had this problem took the brackets off and it went away.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 8:33 am 
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Hmmmmm....... I like the idea.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 10:37 am 
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Our LCA relocation brackets are built on CNC machining centers and don't move the rear end from its original location. The holes are drilled in the same arc as the factory control arm follows (19-1/4" radius). Also, the ride height doesn't change. They enhance forward traction by increasing the anti-squat percentage. As with any performance modification, it's up to the car builder/owner/etc to determine if that upgrade is right for them.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:39 am 
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http://www.tntraceshop.com/Suspension_M ... 00094.html
????????


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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:54 am 
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notagn wrote:
http://www.tntraceshop.com/Suspension_Miscellaneous_200094.html
????????

????????

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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 11:42 am 
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5-door wrote:
TNTS79 hit the nail on the head. Front suspension travel is the key. One of the biggest improvements you can make to your G-body is to the FRONT suspension. Look at the picture below of one of my old stock upper A-arms. This is the single most important modification I made to my car for traction back in the "old days" of my car. This is one of my best kept secrets and this is the first time I'm ever sharing it.

Here is my old setup that I ran low 9's with and wheelies on the street:

Modified upper A-arms as shown in the pic below
Comp Engineering 3-way front shocks
QA1 single adjustable rear shocks (Double adjustable would have been even better)
Stock front springs
Stock rear springs
TNT Raceshop double adjustable rear upper control arms
TNT Raceshop tubular rear lower control arms

That's it. Very simple and low buck, but very effective for any G-body running high 8's and up.




Image

John, do you still have the picture of where you cut the stock arms. I thought I saved it before but its gone...


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