Headers/mounts

Ribbedroof

Top Fueler
Sep 14, 2004
2,893
0
36
Rural Oklahoma
OK, read everything, and everyone says "you have to usse *** brand plates and yyy brand headers" Problem is, they're all different!

Does anyone have an LS in a car that has retained the A/C box?

I also see a lot of references to moving the motor around "til everything fits"...how exactly? The typical plates appear to go on only 2 ways, mount to the front or mount to the back of the plate. I see the S10 mounts are slotted, is this what people are using to adjust positioning?

Here's what I'm considering, based on the posts here and at LS1tech.com (which will not let me activate my account, for some reason :x )

5.3/4L60E
S&P/Trans-dapt/Carshop plates with OE frame pads and shells
OE truck pan with 2" sectioned to minimize dragging
Camaro manifolds or headers

Probably going to have to use a cowl hood for clearance, then I'll be like every other G body :roll:

Anyone else have input?
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
There are two options that ive seen

1) Go with the below linked mounts or custom mounts to push the engine as far back as possilbe and use the schoenfield headers
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=ats&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=713176906&Count2=630317330


2) Jon B on ls1tech makes mounts that put the motor in the stock location and the fbody style headers fit with a little bit of clearancing.

So there are options its just kind of hard to know which really works the best without seeing it in person.
 

Ribbedroof

Top Fueler
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2004
2,893
0
36
Rural Oklahoma
It was my impression that pushing the engine back aggravated the A/C box problem.

Not really sure why John's mounts are triple what everybody else sells for, and there's no pic of them other than the "prototype" set, which didn't impress me.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I havent seen pics of them either even though 2 others have used them and love them, hell I didnt even see a price. I like the ATS ones I linked to and from what I was told they can either mount the motor in the stock location or move it back towards the firewall.
 

Ribbedroof

Top Fueler
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2004
2,893
0
36
Rural Oklahoma
ATS link doesn't work, links to front page, but I've seen 'em before. Look like the S&P, etc etc etc plates. Carshop has 'em cheapest, I believe. No need to pay for mounts that I'm not going to use anyway, I want to use the OE pads/shells.

http://carshop.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/86959/LS1GM

From what I found, John's mounts are $175 +$15 to ship, and requires a notched F-body pan ($250, and you have to have a core) and the OE LS1 car mounts, although the truck pan might fit as well, aside from the depth issues. I read where one guy took 2" out of the truck pan to alleviate the scrape problems. May go that way, buddy has a killer heliarc machine..old school water cooled from the 30s/40s.

Could go Moroso pan, but like everybody, looking to spend as little $$ as possible to get a reliable setup. Doesn't look the greatest, either, IMO.

My biggest concern is the A/C box...not gonna do without it.
 

Ribbedroof

Top Fueler
Thread starter
Sep 14, 2004
2,893
0
36
Rural Oklahoma
A

Anonymous

Guest
Ribbedroof said:
Ribbedroof said:
It was my impression that pushing the engine back aggravated the A/C box problem.

Not really sure why John's mounts are triple what everybody else sells for, and there's no pic of them other than the "prototype" set, which didn't impress me.

Did find a pic...http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20258&d=1104167563

Also seems that you need to drill one hole in your crossmember to install.

He wants 175 for those? wow, could make a couple for cheaper than that. I might just try out the car shop plates cause again trying to save money. I kind of like the moroso pan and 300 for the setup isnt bad imo and I like how it looks, though it wont be seen much.
 

MalibuRacing.com Gear

Stickers & Shirts!!

Latest posts