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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 1:05 am 
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Location: Hillsdale , MI
According to this http://www.maliburacing.com/gauge_conversion.html
you need to change wiring around to swap from the sweep style speedo to the round with tach setup.

My car has the round speedo only setup in it already.
Do I just need to swap to the round w/tach gauges and add the proper water and oil sending units?? or is it just plug and play?


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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:03 am 
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I'm pretty sure it's plug & play. Since it has everything that's going to the proper spots, it'll basically be going from a switch (on/off) to a potentiometer (low/high). I would take the guide off the site for reference, and just check for continuity to those wires. If everything lines up (as I believe it will), you can just put the gauges in (may need a pin for the tach though), replace the pressure/temp. switches with the proper sending units, and go :D

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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:18 am 
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Thank you!

That is what I figured I'd have to do but was unsure. All I have been able to find has been how to switch from the sweep to round style but never the round basic to round w/tach


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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 11:34 am 
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You're welcome ;)

One reason I know this is because I switched mine to gauges and half of them freaked out the first time I turned the ignition on, turns out part of the plastic for the circuit had separated and some of the copper was all corroded to #$@^. I picked up another circuit board (which looked new btw) from a junkyard car that had dummy lights/no tach, put everything back together, and haven't had a problem with gauge functionality (besides the tach being off, I'm still not sure what the deal is there) since :D

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 Post Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:27 am 
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No, it's not plug and play. The cluster housing is different as well as the printed circuit board. And, when adding the tach, you need to make sure you use the tach bracket which replaces the clock one on the back. And, make sure you use the correct tach filter too.


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 Post Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 11:10 am 
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We were talking strictly about the printed circuit board from a round gauge cluster (the round gauge clusters that didn't actually have a tach). I knew the long sweep was different from the round gauge one. Like I said before, the cluster I picked up had a bad circuit board, and instead of spending $70+ for a new one online, I found one in good shape at a junkyard and used it instead. Haven't had a single issue the past two summers I drove the car ;)

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:15 pm 
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Hey Doob, when you went to gages what did you do with the wiper switch?

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:35 pm 
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The cluster housing is the same far as I know, just the bracket for the headlight switch changes for the appropriate bezel. I have a bezel from a mid-80s Monte & matching bracket, so right now my wiper switch is just hangin' loose :? I'm still up in the air on what I'm doing for gauges, but I'll still probably try to track down a pre-'82 or whatever bezel so I can keep the in-dash wiper switch. I will probably pick up a new bracket from Dixie Monte Carlo for the switches though, and keep a lookout for a bezel.

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This is the bezel I'll get (one day, different color though, or I'll just cut the one I have):
Image

I was having accuracy issues with the tach though (both with and without the tach filter), so I just unplugged it for now. I took it out of an '87 SS so I know it was a V8 car as well.

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Last edited by Doober on Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:45 pm 
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I believe the switch for the wiper ends up in the turn signal lever on the column, I have a part # just looking to see if anybody went that way.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:42 am 
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I completed the conversion but I am running into a problem with the oil pressure sensor. I've got a 1980 Malibu and my wiring to the firewall to the current oil pressure switch/sender has two leads. The switch I have in there now has two leads and the oil/choke light worked. I swapped wires in the harness per the diagram to go from sweep to round with gauges. I bought an oil pressure switch for an 85 Monte SS and it has only one terminal on the end and is enormous compared to the other one. So much so that it will not thread in to the hole behind the distributor without pulling the distributor. Do I have the wrong pressure switch/sending unit? Anyone else had this problem? It's been bugging me that the oil pressure gauge doesn't work.


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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:21 pm 
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The oil pressure wire is tan or tan with a black stripe (kinda foggy there). The choke wire is constant 12v I believe where the tan wire is just for the gauge and isn't supposed to be hooked up to anything else. Think of the sending unit as a potentiometer and the gauge as an ohm meter, because that's basically what that setup is (along with fuel level and water temp.). There is a specific resistance range the gauge and sender have to operate in for the gauge to be accurate.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:28 pm 
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You'll see the wiring for it on the left of the schematic.
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 Post Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:58 pm 
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You did buy the right sender for a gauge. The sender for a light is slim and is just an on/off switch.

You may also need an extension or elbow to put that big sender next to the distributor. The Monte Carlo SS had the sender on the left side of the block and there was also an extension about 1 inch long. Depending upon the type of exhaust you have, you may or may not be able to put the sender in that location. If you have mechanical clutch linkage, you will need to use 2 45-degree fittings and angle the sender away from the clutch cross shaft at about a 30-degree angle.

When I put long tube headers on my Monte Carlo, I had to move the sender from the side of the block to near the distributor.


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 Post Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:04 am 
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I think I'm actually using the sender/elbow from my '88 pickup... I never checked to see if the ohm range is the same, but it seems to be pretty close... idle is max pressure on the gauge, idle pressure hot is around 25-40psi I think. Both the G-Body gauge and the truck gauge were 60psi, so I'm guessing it's fine - point is regardless you should see some sort of movement in pressure, not just pegged/0.

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