Victor Junior intake with a NX Gemini Twin Phase 3 Plate ???

83BLACKHAWK

Amateur Racer
Oct 26, 2006
286
0
0
South Western Ohio
Has anyone ran this spraybarless plate on a victor jr intake, did you have to do any grinding for the nitrous to shoot out correctly into the runners.

They say if you have a clover design intake or a intake with a divider in the center you have to grind, I talked to them and they said they can not be for sure if my victor jr even with the big opening it has is ready to go.

They said to dry shot my intake with the carb off and see if it is hitting any walls and make sure it is going into all the runners. I really didn't want to take my intake off to do this so before i go that far, i was hopin somebody on here has experience with this nitrous system and would know.

thanks for your help
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Have used this system on a couple of different setups and it is about 50/50 that you won't have any distribution issues. If it were mine, I would send your plate and intake to NX and let them make the decision. It will save you a bunch of headache and probably a few pistons and head gaskets further down the road.
 

ProJunk

Dragway Regular
Sep 12, 2006
902
0
0
Glendale, AZ
You need to take the nitrous plate mounting gasket that NX provides with the kit and compare it to your plenum opening... you'll notice that the NX gasket opening is wider than a standard 4150 base gasket. Trace the opening onto any plenum material left exposed inside the gasket with a marker or machinists dye, and then remove that material to match the gasket opening. That will insure that you have absolutely no interference with the nitrous as it flows out of the plate. You don't have to remove the manifold either, if you're careful. It sounds back-woods redneck, but you can stuff rags down the intake runners, grind the plenum opening while running a shop vac around the grinder, and then vacuum out any remaining chips before you remove the rags from the runners. I know it sounds terrible, but I've done it myself on a Weiand single plane manifold when I was using that plate, and never had any problems.
 

83BLACKHAWK

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Oct 26, 2006
286
0
0
South Western Ohio
projunk

from what you have seen on a victor jr intake will i need to grind any down below the opening where the gasket is, like way down where the runners actually are, or just do the gasket match like you said and i am good to go.

thanks for the info guys
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
You guys are a lot braver than I am grinding on an intake still on the motor. Shop vac and rags or not, I still wouldn't take the chance. It's not worth it to save a gallon of antifreeze and $20 gaskets. Take it off.
 

ProJunk

Dragway Regular
Sep 12, 2006
902
0
0
Glendale, AZ
onthebumper said:
You guys are a lot braver than I am grinding on an intake still on the motor. Shop vac and rags or not, I still wouldn't take the chance. It's not worth it to save a gallon of antifreeze and $20 gaskets. Take it off.

When you live in Arizona and work in a non-air conditioned garage, plus you're fat and lazy, plus you're too cheap to buy extra intake gaskets, plus you're working on a 4V Cleveland engine which runs like butt no matter what you do to it, then the shop vac and rags have SERIOUS appeal. Okay, okay, mostly it's the fat and lazy part... :D
 

83BLACKHAWK

Amateur Racer
Thread starter
Oct 26, 2006
286
0
0
South Western Ohio
well i am suppose to have a Bishoff Racing Shortblock, (bought used with 300 miles on it (BES out of Indiania) i went ahead and pulled the intake off, i didnt want to take any chances

For anybody else interested for information about this subject. I don't know how much the casting tolerances very from victor jr to victor jr.

so as for me i had to trim the gasket back almost a 1/8" all the way around to clear the pin holes in the nx plate first.

as for a Victor Junior Intake with the Phase 3 plate (no spray bars, everthing machined inside of the plate)

I had to grind 1/8" to 3/16" off the opening sides for the ends (water neck and distributor) and 1/4" to 5/16" off the opening side to side (heading torward the fenders of the car)

I grinded it to a nice straight line and stopped when i got to the radius's in the corners, then blended them down to match the surface inside 1" lower

not to much trouble but if your wanting a nitrous kit to just throw on and go, just know this kit may require grinding for your application.

NX says the kit is worth the work. they said i will get 98-125 at the rear wheel with a 100shot and they said they have guys out there getting up to 250 at the rear wheel on a 200 shot.

I hope for the best.
 

ProJunk

Dragway Regular
Sep 12, 2006
902
0
0
Glendale, AZ
I think you'll be pleased with that plate. My friend just made the switch from an old school NX plate that had a conventional spray bar down the center to the Phase 3 plate. On 200 h.p. with the old NX plate, the car would go 9.80's-9.90's. With the new Phase 3 plate set on 200 h.p., and no other changes at all, the car went 9.50 @ 137 MPH last weekend, and that's in nasty 100+ degree AZ heat. The car is a '78 Malibu w/a back-half & ladder bars, 32x14.50 slicks, 4.56 gears, Powerglide, and a .060"-over 396 w/12:1 compression, stock unported 215 casting oval port heads w/stock size valves, an old school Torker manifold w/the twisted carb flange, 850cfm Holley, small solid roller cam, and 2" headers w/3" exhaust through the mufflers.
 

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