roll out

Goob

Top Fueler
Jun 6, 2003
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Indianapolis
I can adjust mine (with shock settings and tire pressures) from about .280 to .320, generally run it in the .310 area, off the two-step and t-brake.
 
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Anonymous

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Thread starter
so where would you want it if you ran off footbrake? thanks
 

Goob

Top Fueler
Jun 6, 2003
3,641
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Indianapolis
I set up as quick as possible when I'm feetsbraking, because I'm old and slow, and can't take the stage RPM's up past 2200 or so.

Trying to figure the exact rollout is a little tougher that way too, but I go fully as stiff as possible on the front shocks when footbraking.

I assume you're trying to set up a practice tree?
 
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Anonymous

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Thread starter
Hitman said:
put it on 32 and get after it. :D

do you mean 320? i dont think any car im gonna have is gonna rollout at 32
 

Goob

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Jun 6, 2003
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Indianapolis
Okay then, I'll tell you how I was able to get an accurate figure on my rollout...

When using your practice tree, first set it to zero rollout, and exactly 1.000 second on the delay, hit the top bulb as if you were t-braking with a delay box......you'll find your most consistent reaction to the light is the first one you see, so we'll establish your "DRT" or Driver Reaction Time, to seeing the lamp. Be comfortable with your reaction, nearly mindless, no leaning on it, or laying off of it. On average, most racers will find that DRT to be something between .170 and .220, so say you find your "spot" is .190 on the display with the settings as above. Of course they will all be redlights, don't worry about that, we are training your eye to tell a muscle to move, in a consistent manner.

Now, once you have mastered being consistent, and have your DRT number, put Zero rollout in the tree, and ZERO the delay, then hit the bottom bulb until your DRT is the same as it was off the top bulb, then you can be assured that your eye is focused on that bottom bulb well, and you are reacting to it as consistently as you do on the top bulb.
Go to the race track and test.......now you'll KNOW that you "hit" the bulb correctly, because your eyes are trained now, don't worry about whether you footbrake or release a button, you have only been training your eyes to this point.
At the track if your repeated total R/T off the bottom bulb is consistently .500 or .000, you would KNOW that your VRT, or Vehicle Reaction Time (rollout) is .310, because .310 and .190 = .500

You'll also develop the ability to "know" when you are late or early, and will have a good base upon which to adjust your car to your needs, for instance you'll know that 5 lbs. of air in the fronts is in fact worth .010, or whatever it may be, to your track reaction times.

I have a Port-A-Tree Eliminator 2000 practice tree, and a Biondo Mega-Box in my car to compare my DRT's between the practice button and the one on my wheel.

Also you'll become aware that there are those days when you just might be .020 better or worse on the tree, and that is the way it's gonna be that day, you roll with it and adjust your car, always hitting that bottom bulb the same, like a machine.

Now when you want to have some fun with the practice tree, set it on "random dial in" mode, and hit BOTH bottom bulbs with both buttons.....when you can focus in and do that, you'll kill at the starting line on the track.
NOTHING will be able to rattle you on the line.

It's "bad practice" to just want to set the practice tree to where you get good reactions and sit for hours upon end...your eyes get funny from "photo-flash".....use the button for hours to get a repeatable motion of release, but once you are grooved in, turn on the tree, hit it no more than 4 or 5 times, with a break in between, in other words, "practice like you race" mentally.....I like ot leave mine on, and might walk by it once or twice in a day, just pick up the button, hit it, and walk away......wait a while, come back and do it again.
When you can put it away for several days, fire it up and hit your number, and walk away, you've kinda mastered it.

Oh yeah, "in car" testing has also shown me that your "in the staging lanes with the engine running" DRT might be as much as .020 quicker than your "at rest" practice DRT, just because of the adreleline of being strapped in and ready to race....just keep all that in mind when setting your VRT and making your adjustments.

Basically, the more "mindless" you can make your starting line and run routines, the better racer you will be.

I could in no way begin to describe anything that goes on inside my car after the burnout, I'd need film to be accurate about how the shifter works or anything....All I know when I'm "on", the shift light just barely blinks on both gear changes, and I see a lot of win lamps in my lane.

That's the best I got for ya. 8)
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Thread starter
now that is awesome. thanks. the practice tree im playing with is set only on a pro tree. cant change it. i would like to get the one from performance trends and try it. thakns for the info that will help a lot.
 

Goob

Top Fueler
Jun 6, 2003
3,641
0
0
Indianapolis
Best thing I ever did for my bottom bulb racing was to use the delay box and top bulb race a bit......not only was I able to narrow down exactly what each adjustment to the car was "worth" in time, it also "trained" my eyes to see what my car is supposed to be doing on a good reaction time......I always know instantly if my fender was moving before that bottom bulb got full bright, I was either .498 red, or real, real good if it went green, anyway, it seemed to get ingrained into my brain and those good bottom bulb R/T's just flowed, and I also knew when I had missed it.
I can "call it" when I've missed it by as little as .010, and when I'm .020 off, I'm going to need those .02 I keep in my pocket to get a shot of pushing the other racer into a mistake at the finish line. When I'm red, I rarely miss that return road "call" by more than .002, as to how bad it was.

Eye training is all you need, the rest will come.
 

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