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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 8:09 am 
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what company what ?

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 12:38 pm 
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This reply is for which brake line is which.........

On my Monte Carlo,I followed the brake lines down to the factory porportioning block on the frame.Looks like the thin brake lines feed the front disc brakes & the thick brake lines feed the rear brakes.I ran the front brake line (thin line) to the rear hole on the master cylinder (hole closest to the firewall),then on the front hole I ran the thick line out of it,but I had to buy an adapter,the factory brake line was too big to bolt directly in.I got my adapter at the Kunkels Auto Parts here in town.Hope this helps.Just be sure you give the brake peddle the proper free-play..I had mine too tight & wore half of the brake pads off in 2 days!No wonder my brakes were hard to push,they were halfway applied before I applied them..LOL!..not to mention the front wheels were too hot to touch..LOL!Live & learn.I like my kit,but it needs better directions & tips..just my .02 cents.Got mine from Travis at http://www.dragracebrakes.com/
For more information, e-mail them at sales@dragracebrakes.com or call at (816) 536-3216

...Mark

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 2:01 pm 
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i just ordered the manual brake kit today. My front brake lines are good and reuseable, my rear brakes from the master was broken (taking it off the master). i'll remake that line and bleed the system hoping everything works.

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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 5:55 pm 
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Hey benchseatracin I have a question for you. What type of brakes do you have on your car? Disk and drum or disk and disk? Are you using the master that came from sragracebrakes/ steel concepts? Did you need to move the rod on the pedal? Thanks in advance! I appreciate any help

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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:47 pm 
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Hello mc1984ss! Yes I have the wilwood master cylinder.I got it from Travis with the complete kit.I have the factory discs up front & drums on the rear.
I had to drill the brake peddle too to get the proper alignment for the push rod.It's not hard to get it out of the car.There's a spring clip on one end of the rod that lets your peddle pivot.Slip it off & your peddle should slip out of the pivot hole it's in up under your dash.There's a hole in your brake peddle,and a stud sticking out that your factory pushrod hung on.Drill a hole in the middle off those 2 points & that should work.
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 Post Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:03 pm 
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I recently put the kit on my car, and drilled it. Everything is good, hopefully this place thaws out so i can test them.

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:57 pm 
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What about the rear brakes with the kit. Do you HAVE to use a 10 psi valve or adjustable valve?


Thanks,
Ty

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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:02 pm 
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So is the kit $245 + shipping? Are there nuts that go on the back side of firewall when you put the aluminum bracket on? Does it come with the bolt for the pushrod and what size do you drill the hole? Do you hook up the brake lines just like the factory as in front line goes to rear brakes and rear line goes to front?
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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 12:15 am 
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I have the manual master, wilwood front brakes, drum rear, bought a adjustable prop valve, the lines are all bleed, everything seems fine until i drove it.
The pedal is firm, not squishy, The car stopped like a tank. I dont know if brake fluid got on the front rotors and pads from when i was bleeding them.
I attempted to adjust the pressure on the prop valve to see if the back would lock up, but nothing happend. no matter what i did it didn't change anything.

I'm stumped.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:07 am 
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I'm having the same trouble.My car has a very firm peddle like a power brake car with the motor not running,and it doesn't stop for crap!Notsure whats up with that! :-k

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:00 pm 
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air still in the line wouldn't cause this would it?
I'm just wondering why the rear brakes weren't locking up when I gave them more pressure.

Also on the prop valve, i put the front lines in the opposite places, just because the lines were already bent for the stock prop valve in those locations and the new prop valve had it switched. I figured its going the same place, it shouldn't matter.

i am running the larger line after the prop valve to the rear brakes, but at the master cylinder i am running 3/16 line to the prop valve for the front/rear brakes. COuld this be a problem?

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Last edited by onefastermonte85 on Sun Apr 12, 2009 3:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 1:07 pm 
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on wilwoods site

I have a hard pedal, but the car is very difficult to stop. What is the problem?
A: Common contributors to "hard pedal, won't stop" issues are an oversized master cylinder bore and/or inadequate pedal lever ratio. Another contributing factor is the “aggressiveness” of the pad. Disc brakes require approximately 900-1200 PSI at the caliper for effective functioning. We recommend that you use Wilwood Quick Check Pressure Gauges to measure your pressure at the caliper. If you are not generating the required pressure, we recommend increasing your pedal ratio, and or going to a smaller bore master cylinder. See our Troubleshooting Guide for more complete information, and make sure you have Wilwood Quick Check Pressure Gauges available to assist you in evaluating the problem.You can also contact a Wilwood Sales Technician at 805-388-1188 or email customerreply@wilwood.com

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 Post Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:03 pm 
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Well the brakes worked tonight when i took it out. I think some crap was on the rotors. I rode the brake for a little bit. It ended up working after a bit of driving, so now i have to adjust the rear brakes because they were locking up a bit. :) woohoo

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 Post Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2009 2:36 am 
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I USED A 85 S-10 MANUAL BRAKE MOUNTING PLATE FROM THE JUNKYARD AND WENT TO NAPA AND GOT A MASTER AND PUSHROD FOR A 71 CHEVELLE HAD TO DO A LITTLE TRIMMING ON THE ROD BUT WORKED PERFECT. THAT IS A VERY NICE KIT. WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND OUT ABOUT THAT BEFORE ALL THE TRIPS TO THE YARD AND PARTS STORE..


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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 11:17 pm 
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ok, why cant you just use a master cylinder from a manual brake malibu?..not as pretty as the kit..but wouldnt all the lines fit correctly? is the pedal different as far as hole location man.vs power..i'm looking at doing the kit until i saw that there is a manual brake malibu factory..i must be missing something???

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