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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:50 am 
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Location: staten island, ny
Im with you Madmax, I just read through 20 pages of posts and am still confused. I have an 85 Monte, front disc, rear drum. Right now Im running a linelock. To acomplish this I capped off one of the 2 front brake lines at the proportioning valve then from the other port at the proportioning valve I ran a line to the input on the line lock then from the out to a T and to the front brakes. Now if Im reading this all correctly I can replace the booster/master Im using now with the new plate and master using the same plumbing I have now and possibly need an adapter fitting for the larger brake line to make it fit the new master. Now comes the question of the additional valve for 10 psi. Do I need this and if so where do I plumb it in?


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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:31 am 
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no one?


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 Post Posted: Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:42 am 
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Travis at Steel Concepts i dont see the link to steel concepts ?


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 Post Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 6:39 pm 
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hartandsoulcustoms wrote:
Travis at Steel Concepts i dont see the link to steel concepts ?



Thats because it was close to 4 years ago when that post was made


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 6:46 am 
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jmerc wrote:
no one?

i don't have one but I have little brake pedal "feel" and my brakes are complete crap. They won't lock up under a panic stop. I bought the manual brake conversion kit from the manual brake kit above at the top of the page. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of the beast with manual brakes and if it is i'll have to get some willwoods.


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 10:53 am 
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mine were hard to push,had them on a 86 SS Monte,it would stop,but I wasn't happy. Ran 10's on motor & 9's on spray.....it stopped,but I wasn't secure feeling.

ecc_33 wrote:
jmerc wrote:
no one?

i don't have one but I have little brake pedal "feel" and my brakes are complete crap. They won't lock up under a panic stop. I bought the manual brake conversion kit from the manual brake kit above at the top of the page. I'm not sure if this is just the nature of the beast with manual brakes and if it is i'll have to get some willwoods.



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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 12:37 pm 
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Location: amanda ohio
I have the same kit as you but mine is really soft and pedal almost goes to the floor. It will stop but it takes a lot of room. I won't drag race it like it is.


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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:12 am 
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BENCHSEATRACIN wrote:
mine were hard to push,had them on a 86 SS Monte,it would stop,but I wasn't happy. Ran 10's on motor & 9's on spray.....it stopped,but I wasn't secure feeling.


I am not sure of what brake setup you are using front and rear, but you most likely need to go down in master cylinder bore size. Smaller bores create more line pressure and will make it easier for you to stop the car. You will have a longer pedal travel, because of less volume a smaller bore has, but it will be easier to stop the car. Using your current adapter plate, this will be the easiest and cheapest solution to improving your brakes.

Other ways to improve braking will be:
Increasing your pedal ratio.
100% organic pads and shoes. Organics have better friction properties when cold.
Stainless steel braided flex lines front and rear. Old, rubber lines start to balloon with age and reduce braking performance.

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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:19 am 
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ecc_33 wrote:
I have the same kit as you but mine is really soft and pedal almost goes to the floor. It will stop but it takes a lot of room. I won't drag race it like it is.


If you have the same kit and brake setup, it seems you either have low drag calipers, a bad master cylinder, rear brake shoes not adjusted out against the drum, or air in the line.

If you still have rubber lines, correctly clamp off the rear brake line by the axle. If your brake pedal improves, it is an issue with the rear brakes.
If not improvement, leave the rear rubber line clamped off, and clamp off your two front brake lines. If you pedal improves, it is most likely you have low drag calipers. If it does not improve, it most likely has something to do with your master cylinder.

Hope this helps.

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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:46 pm 
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Location: amanda ohio
Sorry Dave, I actually have your kit and thought the guy above did too. My problem was my back drums were backed off to much. The pedal is still soft but it stops much much better. This winter I'm going to put a set of 6 piston wilwoods and be done with the front.


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 Post Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 9:15 pm 
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ecc_33 wrote:
Sorry Dave, I actually have your kit and thought the guy above did too. My problem was my back drums were backed off to much. The pedal is still soft but it stops much much better. This winter I'm going to put a set of 6 piston wilwoods and be done with the front.


No issues.

For your current setup, make sure you have new rubber lines front and rear OR stainless steel braided flex lines. Over time old rubber lines will start to balloon when you apply your brakes the ballooning will reduce your braking performance.

Also 100% organics pads and shoes work better when colder than semi metallics and ceramics. They don't require a lot of heat to make them work effectively. Make sure the pads have an FF rating on them. Bed them in properly.

Just remember, more pistons does not necessarily mean more piston area. More piston area gives more clamping force.

The stock caliper has 2.5" diameter piston with a piston area of 4.91 square inches.

The Wilwood kits for the 15" wheels and 12.19" diameter rotor and 6 piston caliper Dynapro calipers has an area of 5.06 square inches. Which is better. Most of the benefit in braking will come from the larger diameter rotor.

The Wilwood Superlite 6 piston calipers have an area of 4.04 square inches.

Here is the brake down in Rotor Torque between 3 Wilwood choices and the stock front brake setup.
Brake Rotor Torque with 7/8" bore master cylinder
10.5" rotor and stock caliper (4.91 sq in piston area)- 964 ftlb
12.19" rotor and 6 piston Dynapro caliper (5.06 sq in piston area) - 1153 ftlb (may be able to use 15" wheel)
12.88" rotor and 6 piston Dynalite caliper (4.04 sq in piston area) - 972 ftlb (only slightly better than stock, 17" wheel min.)
14" rotor and 6 piston Dynalite caliper (4.04 sq in piston area) - 1056 ftlb (18" wheel min.)

If you look at the 4 piston Wilwood kits this is the break down of the Brake Rotor Torque
12.19" rotor and 4 piston Dynalite caliper (4.8 sq in piston area)- 1097 ftlb (may be able to use 15" wheel)
11" rotor and 4 piston Dynalite caliper (4.8 sq in piston area)- 990 ftlb (only slightly better than stock)

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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 5:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2015 6:42 am
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Location: amanda ohio
WOW. Thanks Dave! I never thought of brakes that way. The car has all stock original lines and front brakes. Rear are what came on a quick performance ford 9" with drums. I will be replacing all lines and front brakes this coming winter. I am comfortable the way it stops now.


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 Post Posted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 6:41 pm 
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Location: blairsville pa
Hi where can I get one of the alum spacer at


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 Post Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:37 am 
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john neiman wrote:
Hi where can I get one of the alum spacer at


http://trzmotorsports.com/wp2/?product= ... er-plate-3

OR

http://shop.manualbrakes.com/G-BODY_c2.htm

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