bonded metal panels

ElCaminoBill

Pro Stocker
Feb 8, 2004
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South Carolina
I know this doesn't apply much to G Bodiesbut I'm hoping some of you have experience with bonded panels. I have a few on my truck that I need to separate with minimal damage and rebonded.

To make a long story short : a body shop did a sorry job on the truck and I want to make it right. Taking it back is not an option. They're out of business. Besides I doubt they would or could do it right anyhow.
 

ElCaminoBill

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Thread starter
Feb 8, 2004
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Ribbedroof said:
If they prepped it right ( probably not, I'm guessing), you won't get them off without destroying them.

Can you be more specific on what panels?

The wide corregated panel under the rear window where it connects to the cab corners, from the bottom the the top. Also want to separate the upper part of the door jamb at the rear of the door. I'm hoping I can fix the crappy work done by the body shop.

newpics061.jpg

Here is the damage from the wreck
Lucas109.jpg

This shows the lousy panel alignment. BTW hinges are welded, not adjustible.
Lucas108.jpg

You can see the gap gets wider as it goes up.

Sorry I cant show a pic of the rear panel, the bed is in the way. I'm hoping I can shift the panel to close the gaps.
 

Toner283

Amateur Racer
Aug 23, 2008
293
1
16
Arthur, Ontario, Canada
The glued panels are not supposed to come apart so getting them apart will be tough. I have tried to get some apart in the past & ended up destroying the piece I wanted to save. As far as aligning the door, the way that bodyshop's adjust welded hinge doors is to manually adjust them(read bend them). As crude as it sounds they use 2X4's & other assorted "stuff" to make the doors fit. If they were 1/2 way competent they should have adjusted the door before they painted the truck, but from your post I take it they were not really competent at all.
 

ElCaminoBill

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Feb 8, 2004
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Doober said:
I've been rearended twice, both with the same type of damage :x It looks so minor, and cheap to fix, but then you get the bill... $$$$$ :shock: :shock:


I sometimes wonder if the problem could be the result of the frame still being bent, and maybe it would fall into place if the cab was on a straight frame.

Probably not, but a guy can dream.
 

Ribbedroof

Top Fueler
Sep 14, 2004
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Rural Oklahoma
None of those panels are bonded from the assembly plant. Are you saying that they allegedly replaced some of them?

FWIW, the rear panels are always wavy on those trucks.

Looks to me like they didn't drive the center portion of the corner panel back, just pulled the dent. Block of wood and a 3 pound hammer should have been the first step. Big gap at the rear is common, especially if the door has been flung open or caught by the wind. How's the gap to the fender?
 

ElCaminoBill

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Feb 8, 2004
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South Carolina
Ribbedroof said:
None of those panels are bonded from the assembly plant. Are you saying that they allegedly replaced some of them?

FWIW, the rear panels are always wavy on those trucks.

Looks to me like they didn't drive the center portion of the corner panel back, just pulled the dent. Block of wood and a 3 pound hammer should have been the first step. Big gap at the rear is common, especially if the door has been flung open or caught by the wind. How's the gap to the fender?


I think they separated the rear panel from the corner when "repair" was attempted. There is a sloppy thick bead of hardened material squeezing out of the seam. It looks nothing like the other side.

Its hard to see in the pic but the cab portion of the top door gap doesn't have a sharp 90 degree angle (outer skin to door jamb) like my parts trucks do. Its kinda angled back a little. The gap at the center is pretty consistent with the lower half or the door.

The door is lower than the roof at the rear but higher in the front.
It seems like the cab is out of square.

The fender gap looks perfect.
 

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