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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 6:10 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
I was planning on doing a frame off resto on my '81. I plan to fix a few small problem areas on the frame and then coat it. Has anyone used the POR-15 Chassis Coating? Is it different than the normal coating? How many quarts would I need to do a coupe frame? Is there any other products that are better?

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 Post Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 9:18 pm 
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DON'T DO IT! That stuff sucks! it just hinds rust spend the time & money get it powder coated.


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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:09 am 
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Really? It guarantees that the rust is gone forever. Isn't it some sort of chemical reaction? I could see it not working if it wasn't prepped properly...

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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:26 pm 
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I just spend a night scrapping off all pos15 on my frame... That stuff is junk. Peel.s off like dried skin. Do a search, not too many guys like it. I never had good luck with it... Even bought their prep kit, didnt help!
Poweder coat or rattle can, you'll thank me in the long run!


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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 3:51 pm 
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Does this go for the chassis coating or for all of their products?

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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:16 pm 
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Not arguing with the above negative statements, but we never had any issues with the regular POR15 on the old GT1 car. Of course, it was only driven about 20 hours a year on a closed racecourse...
Tommy

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20k mile '80 Malibu, currently undergoing long term (aka no money) factory style install LS6 454, Cowl Induction, Legend LGT 700 5 speed. Full Global West suspension, 17" N90 wheels, 12" front/11" rear disc brakes, 9" 3.70 Auburn Pro posi.

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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:27 pm 
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Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
My opinion of POR15 is after application it looks too shiny and gives the impression it is really thick and "goopy". I used Eastwood Extreme Chassis black with the recommended primer and I am really happy with it. Sure it is rattle can but it has the right sheen to it and in the process of putting my car back together appears to be a very hard durable paint. I have nothing against powdercoating but my biggest concern about powdercoating is what would happen if it did chip or flake off. How do you "touch that up"? At least with paint I have the option of masking the car off and touching things up. Here is a pic of my frame. I am on the final stretch of a frame off and stripped my frame down to nothing, had it sandblasted and then I painted it. I started with a frame I purchased from Desert Valley Auto parts that was 1001% rust free.

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DonM


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 Post Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:11 pm 
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Location: South Milwaukee, WI
I have a powdercoated frame on one of my Malibus, and on one of the other ones, I did POR15 on the entire floorpan, after removing any rust that was there, then using their metal prep. Yes, it's shiny, but I wanted the protection this stuff gives against RUST. It's going to be under carpet anyway. If you prep the base material correctly, it will last a lifetime. I did my parent's steel mailbox post probably 10 years ago or so with POR15. Lightly topcoated with Rustoleum semi-gloss black afterwards (after a light sanding per the instructions). Still looks like I just did it. Wisconsin winters with all the salt by the end of the road, too, splashing it all the time, and getting rained on etc...

I'll use it again, but I like powdercoating on chassis parts and my frame. If you do all the labor taking the body and suspension parts off the frame, just have it powdercoated. Touch up any rock chips with brushable Rustoleum. Thing is, you won't get many chips, because it's tougher than paint anyway...

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1978 Malibu Coupe SBC TH350
1979 Malibu Coupe BBC M21 4 speed the "Big Gun"
1979 Malibu Coupe LQ9 TCI 6X
1979 Malibu Wagon 305 TPI 700R4


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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 3:18 pm 
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My biggest concern is rust. I don't want to worry about it ever rusting out once the car is on the road. This vehicle will be my daily driver, I'm not really concerned with the chassis being too shiny. I'm not sure if there are places nearby that do powercoating or how much more it would cost me. I'd like to have something stronger on the frame than the factory undercoating. I've seen that stuff come off with brake cleaner.

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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 3:26 pm 
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Location: Palos Heights, IL 60463
I personally wouldn't powdercoat like previously stated, reason being if you ever have to add/weld anything to the frame you are going to have to grind your money right off. I powdercoated the rearend and when i added anti-roll bar i ended up having to remove it. I sandblasted my frame in my driveway, then blew the frame off really well, rolled it into the garage and sprayed a bare metal primer first. I then picked up a case of undercoating from the local autobody supply store, I'm talking about the large cans with the plastic spray tube. The undercoat layed down virtually texture free when used with the straw, you are going to have to practice on something first to get an idea how the undercoat is going to get the right texture and the distance to achieve it. After a liberal coat inside and out I sprayed SEM Chassis black right over within 24 hrs. You can spray this right out of the quart can or dillute it with thinner and it will stay a little wetter when spraying the entire frame. Came out awesome and i have had to allready fix all spots that my new 10 pt cage tied into the frame.


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 Post Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:17 pm 
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I've never used the POR15, but did by some floorpans that were coated with it. As stated earlier when I scrapped it off there was rust below it. When I did my frame, I cleaned all the old material off, scuffed it up, used self etching primer then Sherwinn Williams commercial chasis coat with hardner. It's pretty #### durable and easy enough to touch up as needed. As with any coating it's all in the prep.

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 Post Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:41 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
I see a lot of positive reviews and then a lot of negative ones as well. Most of the negative ones seems to deal with prep work done. I saw one where the guy applied it to a bare frame, I think that's where he screwed up. I found a local place to do power coating. To sandblast the frame and then coat it, they're asking $550. I honestly thought it was gonna cost more than that. I'll probably just save up and go that route.

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